AAR project

[1972 AAR Cuda]

I have always been a fan of the AAR Cuda and I decided I would make my own tribute car. Its very cool to see the restoration in progress - very glad to hear your plan to put it back to stock - even though the fourspeed is my dream car - lol
Keep up the good work and keep supplying pics of your progress, I for one really enjoy seeing where its going!

 

[marksmopars]

Just got the major driveline components and the engine I was shown previously was not the one for the car. The one I got turns ou to be correct, gotta love this as it has t/a heads as well. Needs rocker arm
Assemblies but otherwise should be a winner.

 

[Xcudame]

Sweet! Matching number engine just increased your value a few grand!

 

[marksmopars]

Sweet! Matching number engine just increased your value a few grand!

Sadly I did not receive any valve train components above the heads, which are definitely T/A heads. I have no idea what condition the inner engine is in, gotta say it’s not inspiring to look at. Fellow name Gene Pearson, Precision Performance did my last two 340’s for me and I couldn’t be happier. I did learn that he wants the engine intact if possible, lol. So I’m not gonna take it apart before it gets to his shop. Awesome that it a correct motor though, I get some picks once I finish my frame jig!

 

[Challenger RTA]

I think a purple Aar will look great next to my blue t/a.

Some guys are just so lucky. Now I'm green with envy! Wait that a mopar color. I think any color would look fantastic on a E body next to mine.

 

[Xcudame]

340's are tough, I doubt there's too much wrong that can't be machined to fix. If the heads have not been ported, the T/A heads can be modified (intake push rod holes moved over) to use standard iron rockers! Some will call me blasphemous but Chrysler never did the extra machining to take advantage of the offset rockers. Unless I'm mistaken or someone here has a set, the rockers aren't being reproduced for the 340 T/As.

 

[marksmopars]

In my T/A I don’t have a correct block but do have the heads and manifold/carb set up. I put my heads on a friends mill cut that bump out of the intake port, just cleaned it to match the sides. It did make a difference and I believe they created the design to do that.

 

[marksmopars]

Does anyone have any ideas where I might be able to get rocker arm assemblies for this? I need th T/A offset adjustable type, thanks

 

[marksmopars]

Hello all - we are nearly done building our version of a frame jig, decided no other way with how much of this needs replaced. I’ll post pics once we get it done, I will say I found lots of helpful information on how to from folks here so thanks.
While this is going on im looking at the original,dash which is really nice, but dirty as you might imagine for a car that has sat for decades. Was hoping that I might tap into the knowledge base here on do’s and don’ts on cleaning this without hurting it. Any suggestions would be welcome, thanks.

 

[marksmopars]

Additional information I have found on the motor. Harland sharpe builds roller rockers for these heads, not cheap but not many options. Also, Gene said he would do my motor for me! Gene is an awesome guy, I believe he is 82 now and has been doing this all his life. He told me to go ahead and take this motor apart, put the parts ina bucket and bring it to him. I filled the thing with an oil mixture after a scope revealed rusty cylinders, unsure of how bad. I’ll post pics of it when I take it apart in a week or so.

 

[torredcuda]

I have the factory 273 adjustable arms on my 340 with J heads but not sure if those work with T/A heads. I did find these - Small Block Chrysler 340 T/A Iron Oem Iron single shaft

 

[marksmopars]

I have the factory 273 adjustable arms on my 340 with J heads but not sure if those work with T/A heads. I did find these - Small Block Chrysler 340 T/A Iron Oem Iron single shaft

Thanks, these are roller rockers which I have also found are available from Harland sharpe, fyi.

 

[marksmopars]

I opened up the original
Motor for the AAR today and have some
Pics. Big mouse nest in the oil pan and still haven’t removed the cam and lifters. Soaked them good and will let sit for a week before I try to remove them. Pistons came out without too much trouble but been sitting with lube soaking for two weeks. Still need to clean up all them parts and inspect but it looks like the engine was rebuilt and never ran. Here’s some pics.

 

[marksmopars]

Bottom of a t/a block, note the thickness of the main ribs. Also note some work has been done on the heads which I’ll be looking at closer after a clean up. Maybe one of you can tell me if this a stock Rod also.

 

[Xcudame]

When I worked in an engine machine shop years ago, we had a hot tank (caustic cleaner) that would clean up rusty blocks and heads so they looked new! Probably did away with all those type of tanks nowadays. Still, your block and cylinder heads can be cleaned up and salvaged! I've literally beaten pistons out of a block busting up the pistons, but salvaged the block and heads. Another good thing for rusty parts is white vinegar.

 

[Challenger RTA]

When I worked in an engine machine shop years ago, we had a hot tank (caustic cleaner) that would clean up rusty blocks and heads so they looked new! Probably did away with all those type of tanks nowadays. Still, your block and cylinder heads can be cleaned up and salvaged! I've literally beaten pistons out of a block busting up the pistons, but salvaged the block and heads. Another good thing for rusty parts is white vinegar.

Been there done that too. proposition 69 meant something else. Wait I think I meant 65? Wait again I think it's now said they both are caustic solution?

 

[hdwrench]

When I worked in an engine machine shop years ago, we had a hot tank (caustic cleaner) that would clean up rusty blocks and heads so they looked new! Probably did away with all those type of tanks nowadays. Still, your block and cylinder heads can be cleaned up and salvaged! I've literally beaten pistons out of a block busting up the pistons, but salvaged the block and heads. Another good thing for rusty parts is white vinegar.

i have a couple of old engines i want to try to soak in molasses bath . i know it’s not good for alum but the pistons are shot anyway …ironically i have an old hot tank that i’m going to try the molasses bath in ! great project find congrats and good luck on your build !!!

 

[fastmark]

Wow. Good score. Hopefully the cly walls are not rusty and pitted. Remember that the walls are thin on all 340 so a .040 over bore is max. It’s already at .030. I’ve got two AARs and wish you luck with the car. Save as much of the original parts as you can. Since your car is so original and complete, I would find original TA iron rockers. You can find the. The Harland Sharps are well over $1000 and you can find the stock TAs for about $1500. I see then regularly. Check eBay. . I’m jealous of your two build sheets. I’m not sure if I ever had one but I changed out my original seats in 77 for some better ones and never knew to look for such things. Congrats.

 

[torredcuda]

340s can go .060 over but obviously best to sonic check first, otherwise sleeves are cheap and easy if needed to save the block.

 

[marksmopars]

340s can go .060 over but obviously best to sonic check first, otherwise sleeves are cheap and easy if needed to save the block.

Thanks, the cylinders and entire motor were rebuilt and it was never run. There is some rust on a few of the cylinders but on others you can see it was fresh bored and never run. I washed assembly lube off the cam after prying it out of the engine with a crow bar, lol. I’ll be taking this to my engine guy today and see what he thinks, overall I am hopeful after disassembly and inspection!