Bolt In Radiator Support (?)

[SpiderHelix]

Hi:
The rad support on my Challenger has been cut. Both the top and bottom.
The car is painted, and I don't want to remove fenders or damage the paint with welding when replacing the parts.
I am not a welder, but I have read about plug welding, which may be an option.
Can I just bolt the new pieces backed up with 3m Panel Adhesive?
Thanks

 

[Adam]

You could…. But if it were mine I would weld in a carefully cut replacement; paint the back side green and the front side black. It would be a small area to paint… if you were closer to me I would do it for you…

 

[SpiderHelix]

You could…. But if it were mine I would weld in a carefully cut replacement; paint the back side green and the front side black. It would be a small area to paint… if you were closer to me I would do it for you…

Come on by! There is beer in the fridge.

"carefully cut replacement"
Are you saying to leave what's there rather than remove the spot welds and all of the old pieces? If I left the bottom curved spots, bolting in would be cake and welding in may be doable by someone that's not me.

 

[Adam]

The top of your core support, near the battery side should have a partial vin on it. That is why I would not replace the whole thing. Also I weld sheet metal and paint so it’s an easy choice for me…

My approach would be to trim the existing edges to clean them up; then trim a replacement core support with maybe a 1/2 inch overlap, so the replacement panel can lay on top/behind the original. I would clamp it in place and use a carbide scribe to go along the edge of the original metal, marking the replacement panel exactly. Remove the replacement and carefully cut the excess off, right at the line. A jigsaw with metal cutting blade would be best for this. Then put it in to test the fit and make any adjustments. Clamp it in and weld it up, using a stitch method to avoid warping. (can’t run a bead on sheet metal without problems). Dress the welds with a flap wheel, careful not to overheat the area. Apply any filler as needed, sand, epoxy Primer, high build primer, wet sand with 400 or higher, and paint the color coat.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Only way I would do it is if you had the original pieces. tack weld small pieces on to hold in place. then stitch weld backing with copper. finish of with flap disk.paint TCP Globe is a good source for paint. If you don't have the pieces,the vin is gone. so it doesn't matter. In for a penny in for a pound. you might as well do it right.

 

[SpiderHelix]

The top of your core support, near the battery side should have a partial vin on it. That is why I would not replace the whole thing. Also I weld sheet metal and paint so it’s an easy choice for me…

My approach would be to trim the existing edges to clean them up; then trim a replacement core support with maybe a 1/2 inch overlap, so the replacement panel can lay on top/behind the original. I would clamp it in place and use a carbide scribe to go along the edge of the original metal, marking the replacement panel exactly. Remove the replacement and carefully cut the excess off, right at the line. A jigsaw with metal cutting blade would be best for this. Then put it in to test the fit and make any adjustments. Clamp it in and weld it up, using a stitch method to avoid warping. (can’t run a bead on sheet metal without problems). Dress the welds with a flap wheel, careful not to overheat the area. Apply any filler as needed, sand, epoxy Primer, high build primer, wet sand with 400 or higher, and paint the color coat.

Thanks for the feedback Adam. Not worried about the VIN as this is a 318 car. Now a restomod with tubs, 440, aftermarket sunroof, etc.
This is over my head, but I have a buddy with some fab experience.

 

[SpiderHelix]

Only way I would do it is if you had the original pieces. tack weld small pieces on to hold in place. then stitch weld backing with copper. finish of with flap disk.paint TCP Globe is a good source for paint. If you don't have the pieces,the vin is gone. so it doesn't matter. In for a penny in for a pound. you might as well do it right.

I have aftermarket full pieces.

 

[Challenger RTA]

You have the pieces .I think It's a lot less work cut spot weld out. and replace panels. Get a spot weld cutter It's a lot easier then you think.done it.

 

[moparleo]

This is a structural part and ties the 2 inner fenders together.
Get a new support and go to a professional/body shop to have it done once and correctly.
Any paint touch up will be on the inner engine panel area. A body shop should be able to do the whole thing.
Sometimes it is worth it to pay somebody who does it for a living and is not practicing on your car.
Right now the only thing holding the front of your car together is the K-frame. It may already have some front inner frame rail twisting.
Who ever did this was a butcher/total fool and knows nothing about structural integrity.
I am amazed you don't have noises and poor cornering. I would not drive it. I would have it flat bedded to a repair/frame shop.
Have the rest of the car inspected for any other safety areas of the under side chassis for more damage.

 

[SpiderHelix]

You have the pieces .I think It's a lot less work cut spot weld out. and replace panels. Get a spot weld cutter It's a lot easier then you think.done it.

This is the direction I am leaning, with bolts or possibly plug welds.

 

[SpiderHelix]

This is a structural part and ties the 2 inner fenders together.
Get a new support and go to a professional/body shop to have it done once and correctly.
Any paint touch up will be on the inner engine panel area. A body shop should be able to do the whole thing.
Sometimes it is worth it to pay somebody who does it for a living and is not practicing on your car.
Right now the only thing holding the front of your car together is the K-frame. It may already have some front inner frame rail twisting.
Who ever did this was a butcher/total fool and knows nothing about structural integrity.
I am amazed you don't have noises and poor cornering. I would not drive it. I would have it flat bedded to a repair/frame shop.
Have the rest of the car inspected for any other safety areas of the under side chassis for more damage.

I haven't driven it. It's a ways off from doing that.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Keep leaning you will understand. Trust Me!

 

[Challenger RTA]

I haven't driven it. It's a ways off from doing that.

Then you have the time. Get busy,time can't be bought unless you have deep pockets.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Did you ever hear of mud lake ID ?

 

[SpiderHelix]

Did you ever hear of mud lake?

My girlfriend grew up there. About 40 minutes north of me.
I don't think the chamber of commerce thought things through very well before naming it though.

 

[Challenger RTA]

My wife lived there in the 70S. Her X had a challenger. After we were together for awhile.she found out I had one. she was pissed all over again.40 some years together I think she is over it?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Here's a few measurements that might help.Before you pull fender. pull measurements in front and back. or mark. the last 2 picture show how accurate the reading are. 16 gauge is 1/8 inch. Most of the jig holes are still on you parts take note.
Ok 1 more picture.

 

[70chall440]

This is the direction I am leaning, with bolts or possibly plug welds.

I am not sure you understand what a "plug weld" is... (if you do then I apologize in advance). The radiator core support is held onto the inner fenders via "spot welds" which is essentially a plug weld, therefore if you replace the entire core it should spot welded back in as the original was done.

Leo is on point, these cars RELY on every panel to be attached correctly and securely in order to work as intended. You can certainly strengthen the car but only a fool would weaken it. This is one of the main reasons USCT sells their chassis stiffening kit which IMO is definitely worth doing (whether their actual parts or similar ones), it makes a HUGE difference in handling.

Although it appears to be sublime, I have no idea what color that car actually is and if it is actual Mopar sublime the offerings from TCP will not match. I know this because I painted the engine compartment of my Cuda actual sublime but then did not want to pay for the actual color and selected the TCP color I thought would be close, it wasn't. Mopar sublime is much more "creamy" than other version of the color.

 

[moparleo]

The whole upper and lower core support need replacement. The whole thing is missing, not just the top and bottom sections.
It holds the entire front of the car together.. Imagine if you cut the torsion bar crossmember out of the car and just drove it as usual. What would be the result ?

Radiator Core Support | AMD 350-1570-S

www.autometaldirect.com

 

[SpiderHelix]

The whole upper and lower core support need replacement. The whole thing is missing, not just the top and bottom sections.
It holds the entire front of the car together.. Imagine if you cut the torsion bar crossmember out of the car and just drove it as usual. What would be the result ?

Radiator Core Support | AMD 350-1570-S

www.autometaldirect.com

I have both of those pieces. Thx