Header leak - I need advice

[quapman]

The best header gaskets are made of "dead-soft" aluminum, like Percy's.

Not sure what any of you are referring to as "piston slap". Is this the same as "rod knock" (from a spun bearing) or are you speaking of loose, sloppy wrist pins?

 

[moparleo]

This is for Cuda360, So what is the verdict ? Header noise gone or looking elsewhere for another car ?

 

[Cuda360]

This is for Cuda360, So what is the verdict ? Header noise gone or looking elsewhere for another car ?

It was the gasket (thankfully) he replaced the driver's side before I got there Saturday morning. The passenger side has a minuscule leak as well but, seeing as I arrived an hour earlier that I initially thought, he wasn't able to do that side. I tried doing it yesterday morning but got a little scared. I loosened up the first bolt and some liquid started dripping out. It did not feel or smell like oil... I tightened the bolt back and closed the hood.
What was dripping out?

 

[moparleo]

Coolant. Use sealer on the end studs/bolts.

 

[Cuda360]

So today, Sunday, was a nice overcast day, not too hot, and I had nothing to do. So I figured I would replace my passenger side header gasket... It did not go well. After draining the coolant and rather easily removing all of the bolts and old gasket I was feeling good, it was actually going well. ...6 hours later, after cuts, scrapes and crushes of my fingers and forearm and a hole punched into my wall, I finally think I've got the bolts lined up and hand tight. So I start tightening them. On the third bolt I hear a pop and the bolt loosened up (oh crap) did I just strip the head?? No it can't be, the flange wasn't even contacting the head yet! I backed the bolt out and it looked fine, so I'm assuming the thread of the head is not fine.

I should have just ignored the sound of the leak.

 

[moparleo]

Just try to install another bolt in that hole. You will find out pretty quickly if it is stripped. Btw you should uses studs for the end holes as those are the ones that go into the water jacket. That way it not only holds the header and gasket up for easier gasket change but also allows you not have to drain the coolant.
If it is stripped, it is pretty easy to put a heli-coil thread insert into the head.
What happened with the stalling problem ?

 

[Cuda360]

Just try to install another bolt in that hole. You will find out pretty quickly if it is stripped. Btw you should uses studs for the end holes as those are the ones that go into the water jacket. That way it not only holds the header and gasket up for easier gasket change but also allows you not have to drain the coolant.
If it is stripped, it is pretty easy to put a heli-coil thread insert into the head.
What happened with the stalling problem ?

Well, it is definitely stripped. I pulled the header out completely so I could insert a bolt without cursing at the impossible angle. I was able to push the bolt in about half way before turning was necessary. I hand tightened it, then gave a quarter turn with the wrench when it broke loose. So I'll try the helicoil. I'll get studs for the ends too(you wouldn't happen to know the thread pitch/diameter/length I would need would you?) During the process I removed the spark plugs & they are showing signs of wear so I'll replace those as well.

I haven't really done anything with the stalling yet. I know more than the avg. person about cars but nowhere near enough to diagnose or fix it. A guy I work with knows more than enough but we don't have time during the week. I'm going to insulate the fuel lines and pull the carburetor off to see if it is ok. If I can't figure it out, which is likely, I may have to limp my way over to the restoration place that did the Cuda.

Sometimes I wish I'd bought a 89 Civic instead...

 

[Chryco Psycho]

small block or big block
Big block the studs are 3/8 course thread & all go into the water jacket
small block the threads are 5/16 course thread & only the end studs go into the water jacket

 

[Cuda360]

small block or big block
Big block the studs are 3/8 course thread & all go into the water jacket
small block the threads are 5/16 course thread & only the end studs go into the water jacket

Big Block (440)...

I'm going to replace my ignition coil in hopes that will fix my stalling issue. Is there a certain voltage or resistance that is best or are they all basically the same? I ask because Year One (which is about 5 mins away) has one for $75 (No specs given), but Autozone has one for $35 (Minimum Primary Resistance Range:1.1-1.8; Minimum Secondary Resistance Range:9.0k-15.0k)

Cars are confusing...

 

[VeteranCosmicRocker]

Here is my experience. Blackjack alumicote headers put on a 340 Challeneger back in the 80's. Eventual leaking header gasket on driverside. I tried different brands of gaskets, filing the header flange flat, no luck. Doubled up with Mr Gasket header gaskets. No leaks for almost 20 years now.
No TTI's back then . Have them on the wifes Challenger w/5.9 Magnum crate engine now. Perfect fit and no leaks.

Yeah, I remember installing Blackjacks, among others, back in the day. How about "Appliance" headers ? Remember those ?

 

[VeteranCosmicRocker]

Big Block (440)...

I'm going to replace my ignition coil in hopes that will fix my stalling issue. Is there a certain voltage or resistance that is best or are they all basically the same? I ask because Year One (which is about 5 mins away) has one for $75 (No specs given), but Autozone has one for $35 (Minimum Primary Resistance Range:1.1-1.8; Minimum Secondary Resistance Range:9.0k-15.0k)

Cars are confusing...

Not if you take a simple approach. Before throwing a part at a car & crossing your fingers, do simple diagnosis. In this case, use a multimeter & check your wires & connections, a simple bad/corroded connection can cause problems. With headers, I'd always used as many studs as possible, depending on the pipe configuration. I'd "open up" the flange holes a smidgeon, too. On my current 440, I only need a bolt on the rear hole of #1.

 

[Brads70]

Depending on were the striped thread is you could just drill and tap it for the next size bolt? Then drill the header for the bigger bolt too.

 

[moparleo]

Yep. Hedmans were cheap but worked well too.

 

[Cuda360]

Not if you take a simple approach. Before throwing a part at a car & crossing your fingers, do simple diagnosis. In this case, use a multimeter & check your wires & connections, a simple bad/corroded connection can cause problems.

I do have a voltmeter and have tested at various places. All seems to be ok.
This car has wires all over the place that aren't stock...I think one of the previous owners had a big stereo at one point. I need to learn to read a wire diagram so I figure out which ones I can get rid of.

On my current 440, I only need a bolt on the rear hole of #1.

That is the one I stripped!!

 

[Cuda360]

Update:
I have contorted so many ways and there is just no way to heli-coil this hole with the engine in. I just called a shop near me for a quote...between $400-600, depending on how long it takes.
So I'm thinking I might try to pull the head off and do it myself, is that crazy? I've never done anything this involved before (although I did replace a head gasket on a 97 Saturn this weekend)

Any tips to this I should know? Anything I should check when it is off?

As always, thanks for the input.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Makes sense to just pull the head , I would use a timesert instead , a helicoil will leak antifreeze forever .
check for wear on the rocker tips ,

 

[Cuda360]

Makes sense to just pull the head , I would use a timesert instead , a helicoil will leak antifreeze forever .
check for wear on the rocker tips ,

Thanks. Do all of the bolt holes go into the coolant?

I'll take some pics of the tear-down and the supposedly ported heads.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

big block all go into the water
small block which I assume you have just the 2 end studs go into water

 

[Cuda360]

big block all go into the water
small block which I assume you have just the 2 end studs go into water

I've a 440. I guess I'll need yo plug the stripped hole when I bring it to work tomorrow for the removal...
Wish me luck.

 

[moparleo]

I would go ahead and remove both heads and take them to a machine shop in the area and have them check all the threaded holes in both heads and repair any that are either stripped out or getting ready to strip out. No telling how many times the heads have had the exhaust bolts removed and replaced. Depending on how many miles are on the heads , they might be ready to have a valve job done. It will never be cheaper to have it done as long as the heads are off anyway. When a valve job is done ,the machine shop will check for warpage, cracks and leaks. Valve guides, springs, etc. I would also install studs in as many of the holes that have clearance with your headers. That way you won't be fighting to align the bolt holes on your headers and can't strip the head again. At worst you might strip a nut. With the intake manifold and heads off, it is very easy to inspect the camshaft lobes and timing chain. If you find a lot of gunk, it probably wasn't maintained very well.