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Neutral saftey switch woes

flamesoldier

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Not a trans man. But if the detente ball is wore or spring is bad. It would not close the switch for the starter to run. If it stuck it would close the switch.
So i looked at the ball through the hole it didn't appear funky and it was there, but not to say unless i take pan off and check but i have no leaks and good seal which sucks. I am unfortunately wanting the car to be right and im 99 percent there now, with just this backup light neutral switch problem. With everything else checking out its really driving me nuts and leave me to believe the rooster comb is the issue or the plastic/detent piece is the problem, but then why does it work for park and neutral as designed but still allowing start in all other gears as well
 

MoparCarGuy

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Because something is providing a ground (GND) to the starter relay location #5 which is the bottom right starter relay terminal as mounted on E-Bodies.
 

Challenger RTA

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Some of the relays are internally grounded #5. That will allow the starter to in gauge while in gear. Unbolt the starter from the body and not touching any ground. Try it see what happens. I know you said it's a new relay, but is it the right one.
 

flamesoldier

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Some of the relays are internally grounded #5. That will allow the starter to in gauge while in gear. Unbolt the starter from the body and not touching any ground. Try it see what happens. I know you said it's a new relay, but is it the right one.
This is the relay i bought Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Also the relay i had on it still works just replaced it with new one which shows its accurate. Here is photo of the old one which matches the new one let me know your thoughts.

Lastly as per your recommendation what should i be looking for when i remove starter wire from relay?

IMG_9817.jpeg
 

flamesoldier

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Because something is providing a ground (GND) to the starter relay location #5 which is the bottom right starter relay terminal as mounted on E-Bodies.
If i remove the neutral safety switch wire the relay wont allow start condition so that means its not grounded until i put nss back on then correct?
 

MoparCarGuy

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Yes, for whatever reason you seem to have the "starts in any gear" problem only when the NSS wiring connector is attached to the NSS. That makes the NSS suspect but you reported ohm readings which indicate the NSS is working properly. Cannot have both conditions. Still possible that the readings for the NSS testing are wrong and the NS or the Internal Comb are still a problem. You need to start over and tell us exactly what you tested and what meter you are using, digital or analog.

Fill out this chart.
With NSS connector not connected to the NSS:
In PARK - measure resistance of the center NSS pin to the body of the transmission. ______Ω Should be close to Zero Ω. Flashing or OL is OPEN or very high resistance.
In REVERSE - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In NEUTRAL - same measurement ______Ω Should be close to Zero Ω.
In Drive - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In 2nd - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In 1st - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN

It is almost impossible to have the wiring and the NSS check out as good and still start in any gear.
 

flamesoldier

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Yes, for whatever reason you seem to have the "starts in any gear" problem only when the NSS wiring connector is attached to the NSS. That makes the NSS suspect but you reported ohm readings which indicate the NSS is working properly. Cannot have both conditions. Still possible that the readings for the NSS testing are wrong and the NS or the Internal Comb are still a problem. You need to start over and tell us exactly what you tested and what meter you are using, digital or analog.

Fill out this chart.
With NSS connector not connected to the NSS:
In PARK - measure resistance of the center NSS pin to the body of the transmission. ______Ω Should be close to Zero Ω. Flashing or OL is OPEN or very high resistance.
In REVERSE - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In NEUTRAL - same measurement ______Ω Should be close to Zero Ω.
In Drive - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In 2nd - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN
In 1st - same measurement ______Ω Should be OPEN

It is almost impossible to have the wiring and the NSS check out as good and still start in any gear

I used a digital multimeter on the 200 ohms setting, i additionally tested the center of the plug not connected to nss and just connected at relay with everything off and the wire itself was 116 ohms

With NSS connector not connected to the NSS:
In PARK - measure resistance of the center NSS pin to the body of the transmission. _1.8_____Ω Should be close to Zero Ω. Flashing or OL is OPEN or very high resistance.
In REVERSE - same measurement __-1____Ω Should be OPEN
In NEUTRAL - same measurement __2.2___Ω Should be close to Zero Ω.
In Drive - same measurement _-1_____Ω Should be OPEN
In 2nd - same measurement __-1____Ω Should be OPEN
In 1st - same measurement ___-1___Ω Should be OPEN
 

MoparCarGuy

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I used a digital multimeter on the 200 ohms setting, i additionally tested the center of the plug not connected to nss and just connected at relay with everything off and the wire itself was 116 ohms

With NSS connector not connected to the NSS:
In PARK - measure resistance of the center NSS pin to the body of the transmission. _1.8_____Ω Should be close to Zero Ω. Flashing or OL is OPEN or very high resistance.
In REVERSE - same measurement __-1____Ω Should be OPEN
In NEUTRAL - same measurement __2.2___Ω Should be close to Zero Ω.
In Drive - same measurement _-1_____Ω Should be OPEN
In 2nd - same measurement __-1____Ω Should be OPEN
In 1st - same measurement ___-1___Ω Should be OPEN
With those readings...
your NSS is either bad or the transmission comb is activating the NSS all of the time. Take out the NSS and bench test it. Test the other one you have, too.
Same test but measure from center pin to the body of the NSS and activate it by pushing the plunger. It should be OPEN until you push in the plunger.
 

flamesoldier

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With those readings...
your NSS is either bad or the transmission comb is activating the NSS all of the time. Take out the NSS and bench test it. Test the other one you have, too.
Same test but measure from center pin to the body of the NSS and activate it by pushing the plunger. It should be OPEN until you push in the plunger.
Just to be clear open means what on the multimeter
 

MoparCarGuy

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Just to be clear open means what on the multimeter
OPEN means very high resistance with no current able to flow. Typically, in the thousands of Ω's. Fluke meter shows O.L or OVERLOAD.
Your meter may have a diode tester setting that makes an audible tone when you have zero or close to zero Ω's.
Continuity = CLOSED = Near Zero or Zero = Short These mean essentially the same thing.

Resistance Test OL Overload Infinite Ohms.jpeg
Resistance Test Near Zero Ohms.jpeg
Diode Test Zero Ohms.jpeg
 
Last edited:

flamesoldier

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Meter reading reads 0 or OL Open line. No reading,no resistance no complete circuit.
So my multi meter reads opens as -1 so i just want to make sure we are clear there which we are. I bench test both the old nss and the new nss probably like 15-20x to just make sure i was not missing anything and reinstalled both 2 times without change they all bench tested at 0 or open as you say and only showed resistance when pushed
 

flamesoldier

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OPEN means very high resistance with no current able to flow. Typically, in the thousands of Ω's.
Your meter may have a diode tester setting that makes an audible tone when you have zero or close to zero Ω's.
Continuity = CLOSED = Near Zero or Zero = Short All mean essentially the same thing.
How about the center plug wire itself? if the wire has 116 resistance would this being plugged into the nss treat all gears as open? Essentially the nss center wire has 116 resistance so no matter what the switch is doing the wire is the problem itself?
 

Challenger RTA

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There is a little bit of a problem if you don't understand a digital Multi meter. The one most don't understand is they can read a persons body resistance, depends on how it is set. In some cases it's better to have a sweeping meter face. Make sure you not touching the leads. Moparcarguy has expanded what to do. Not meaning to interfere but following.
 

flamesoldier

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There is a little bit of a problem if you don't understand a digital Multi meter. The one most don't understand is they can read a persons body resistance, depends on how it is set. In some cases it's better to have a sweeping meter face. Make sure you not touching the leads. Moparcarguy has expanded what to do. Not meaning to interfere but following.
I understand im not a pro but i was not contacting the terminals of the probes
 

MoparCarGuy

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I take it for granted that you know at least some basic electricity or electronics. Not to insult you here, we are trying to help you. You may need to seek assistance from a friend or somebody who understands basic electricity.
 

flamesoldier

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I take it for granted that you know at least some basic electricity or electronics. Not to insult you here, we are trying to help you. You may need to seek assistance from a friend or somebody who understands basic electricity.
I appreciate all the hep definitely i have no one that understands this stuff why i am here. But based on all your advise i am doing everything correctly and using meter properly. At this point the switch is working based on the testing, and i have no reverse lights which is a completely different circuit. Which tells me the inside transmission comb is the unfortunate problem or i have the issue this gentleman has where no of the switches are long enough Neutral Safety Switch in Electrical & Audio
 

Challenger RTA

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As I suggested. Hook everything up as it should be. Unbolt the starter relay from the inner fender. Pull coil wire so it wont. start. Try starting in gear. I it cranks over it's the wrong starter relay or its grounded out.
 

flamesoldier

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As I suggested. Hook everything up as it should be. Unbolt the starter relay from the inner fender. Pull coil wire so it wont. start. Try starting in gear. I it cranks over it's the wrong starter relay or its grounded out.
Ok 👍🏻 i will give that a try
 
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