Santa Came Early!!! Hellcat Redeye build with RMS suspension!!!

[6PKRTSE]

I did put a rubber isolator underneath my radiator between it and the core support only because my car shakes the earth when running. I figured it was cheap insurance since it is only a thin aluminum radiator.

 

[Xcudame]

Never had rubber isolators on any of my Mopar radiators! Just took the radiator out of my 64 Imperial and it's original and hard mounted.

 

[1moretoy]

Thank you all. I will solid mount it like the stock unit and keep an eye on it. If needed, I can always add a rubber bushing down the road.

 

[1moretoy]

Next up is to figure out what pump to use. I have it narrowed down to two pumps due to the factory pump being absurdly priced.

Davies Craig Electric Booster Pump Kits DC-9040 this flows 9.2 gpm.

Many use this pump in the LS swap world with no issue.

Or

Meziere Remote Electric Water Pumps WP136S this flows 20gpm.

I'm worried the davies craig won't flow enough by the time it completes the loop with the restrictions of the coolers. The hellcrate instructions call for recommended output of 45 L/min (12 gal/min) at 150 kPa (22 PSI).

What are your thoughts? Is 20gpm too much flow? Definitely don't want it passing through the heat exchanger to fast.

 

[Xcudame]

You're in the California Bay area? If so, the 9.2 gpm pump should be OK. Otherwise if in a warmer climate, the 20gpm might be better!

 

[1moretoy]

You're in the California Bay area? If so, the 9.2 gpm pump should be OK. Otherwise if in a warmer climate, the 20gpm might be better!

Yes, I'm in the bay area.

 

[Xcudame]

9.2 gpm then as the ocean climate will help keep you cool!

 

[Buckminster]

I was worried about that too, but I hard mounted a factory 2016 radiator, its been 2yrs with no issues.

https://postimg.cc/rRTc2sDv][/url]

Mounting the radiator in rubber bushings is a way to reduce the loads on the radiator which improves life. Aluminum and soldered brass do not have an endurance limit. What that means is that the material will eventually fail no matter what load is placed on it. It may be years, decades, but they will eventually fail under a load. It is a way to minimize noise too. Mounting components in rubber dampens transmitted noise. So mounting a radiator directly to the core support can and often does work. Most of these cars don't see a lot of miles which tends to mask structural issues.

 

[1moretoy]

Mounting the radiator in rubber bushings is a way to reduce the loads on the radiator which improves life. Aluminum and soldered brass do not have an endurance limit. What that means is that the material will eventually fail no matter what load is placed on it. It may be years, decades, but they will eventually fail under a load. It is a way to minimize noise too. Mounting components in rubber dampens transmitted noise. So mounting a radiator directly to the core support can and often does work. Most of these cars don't see a lot of miles which tends to mask structural issues.

I'll see what I can come up wit for bushings.

 

[1moretoy]

Well.... I hit my first road block. Test fit the headers last night and the pass side is pretty much touching the motor mount bolt. I can barely slip a credit card in between the bolt and primary.

The drivers side is way off. Currently working with Bill @ Riley motorsports on the fix. He's been very good to deal with. He actually responded to me at 1am. Talk about customer service.

We will probably have to move the motor back 3/8 or so. Question is, can I install a 45* fitting on the coolant crossover temp sensor? Doing this, I should be able to keep the factory manifold. Try not to buy new aftermarket one.

 

[1moretoy]

A fun update... I received my ported blower back from Brett @ Jokerz performance today. Really pleased with the port work. The packaging was next level, so nice, I'll be keeping it. Can't wait to get this thing purring.

 

[1moretoy]

Well.... I hit my first road block. Test fit the headers last night and the pass side is pretty much touching the motor mount bolt. I can barely slip a credit card in between the bolt and primary.

The drivers side is way off. Currently working with Bill @ Riley motorsports on the fix. He's been very good to deal with. He actually responded to me at 1am. Talk about customer service.

We will probably have to move the motor back 3/8 or so. Question is, can I install a 45* fitting on the coolant crossover temp sensor? Doing this, I should be able to keep the factory manifold. Try not to buy new aftermarket one.

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Great news today... I was able to sneak away to the garage for a couple of hours last night. I swapped out the motor mounts and everything fits perfectly now. Plenty of room. I was shocked how simple it was. In the end, the mounts were moved 5/8 forward and everything clears with plenty of room. The rear coolant manifold clears the wiper motor as well. I may have to do something with the sensor but I won't know until I get the wire harness.

 

[Katfish]

Nice, you mention swapped out mounts.
From what to what?

 

[1moretoy]

Nice, you mention swapped out mounts.
From what to what?

They were +1" forward but it was too much so we went 5/8 forward instead. Fits like a glove now and I feel this is the best set up.

 

[1moretoy]

adapters from Aeroflow? I was thinking about using them on my heater core lines to convert to AN fittings. Looks like they compress an o-ring down around the factory barb fitting. I haven't found much information on them so I wanted to know your thoughts.

 

[1moretoy]

Update: it's been a while since I posted but I have been slowly making progress. My harness from Chris @ hotwire auto finally came in. Its' a nice harness, just wish it was more flexible. They used a thick heat shrink type material so it doesn't bend that good. He even made me an extension harness for the PWM controller so I can put that next to the battery in the trunk. I ran all the plumbing for the supercharger with soft aluminum tubing for the most part. I ran it nicely against the subframe connectors. The coolant/Ice tank will me mounted in the trunk. The tank is 3.5 gallons from PNR welding. In the engine bay I used some braided hose with AN fittings through the fenderwell. I removed the barb fittings on the stock crossover and drilled & tapped for MIP X -12an adapters. I mocked up the gas tank and made my own Stainless steel pass through for the 1/2" fuel line. Next up is to get the rear suspension back in. Hoping to get that done this weekend. I need to mount the fuel line and all the components that go with it. Then I'll work on getting the oil & trans coolers mounted.

 

[1moretoy]

Update: it's been a while since I posted but I have been slowly making progress. My harness from Chris @ hotwire auto finally came in. Its' a nice harness, just wish it was more flexible. They used a thick heat shrink type material so it doesn't bend that good. He even made me an extension harness for the PWM controller so I can put that next to the battery in the trunk. I ran all the plumbing for the supercharger with soft aluminum tubing for the most part. I ran it nicely against the subframe connectors. The coolant/Ice tank will me mounted in the trunk. The tank is 3.5 gallons from PNR welding. In the engine bay I used some braided hose with AN fittings through the fenderwell. I removed the barb fittings on the stock crossover and drilled & tapped for MIP X -12an adapters. I mocked up the gas tank and made my own Stainless steel pass through for the 1/2" fuel line. Next up is to get the rear suspension back in. Hoping to get that done this weekend. I need to mount the fuel line and all the components that go with it. Then I'll work on getting the oil & trans coolers mounted.

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[1moretoy]

Hey all, been a while since I posted here. I ran into a little snag and need some advice. I want to run blower spacers to help reduce heat soak and IAT temps. I cut some blocks that are the same height as the spacers and the middle hood support hits the supercharger. It really only needs a 1/2" to clear. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to cut out where needed but still keep it somewhat rigid? Wondering if I could cut it flush and maybe tack weld a thicker piece of steel to reinforce it.

What have you done for extra clearance?

 

[Katfish]

Why not just make a careful cut, then remove the 1/2" from the removed section, and then fab that same piece back in?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Why not just make a careful cut, then remove the 1/2" from the removed section, and then fab that same piece back in?

The profile looks to be constant. Using a wafer wheel to cut then, clean up edges to mate back up. The other way would be to over lap one or the other. The only thing I foresee, the outside ends will be short because of the profile. Once the piece is removed address the ends first.