Santa Came Early!!! Hellcat Redeye build with RMS suspension!!!

[6PKRTSE]

I did put a rubber isolator underneath my radiator between it and the core support only because my car shakes the earth when running. I figured it was cheap insurance since it is only a thin aluminum radiator.

 

[Xcudame]

Never had rubber isolators on any of my Mopar radiators! Just took the radiator out of my 64 Imperial and it's original and hard mounted.

 

[1moretoy]

Thank you all. I will solid mount it like the stock unit and keep an eye on it. If needed, I can always add a rubber bushing down the road.

 

[1moretoy]

Next up is to figure out what pump to use. I have it narrowed down to two pumps due to the factory pump being absurdly priced.

Davies Craig Electric Booster Pump Kits DC-9040 this flows 9.2 gpm.

Many use this pump in the LS swap world with no issue.

Or

Meziere Remote Electric Water Pumps WP136S this flows 20gpm.

I'm worried the davies craig won't flow enough by the time it completes the loop with the restrictions of the coolers. The hellcrate instructions call for recommended output of 45 L/min (12 gal/min) at 150 kPa (22 PSI).

What are your thoughts? Is 20gpm too much flow? Definitely don't want it passing through the heat exchanger to fast.

 

[Xcudame]

You're in the California Bay area? If so, the 9.2 gpm pump should be OK. Otherwise if in a warmer climate, the 20gpm might be better!

 

[1moretoy]

You're in the California Bay area? If so, the 9.2 gpm pump should be OK. Otherwise if in a warmer climate, the 20gpm might be better!

Yes, I'm in the bay area.

 

[Xcudame]

9.2 gpm then as the ocean climate will help keep you cool!

 

[Buckminster]

I was worried about that too, but I hard mounted a factory 2016 radiator, its been 2yrs with no issues.

https://postimg.cc/rRTc2sDv][/url]

Mounting the radiator in rubber bushings is a way to reduce the loads on the radiator which improves life. Aluminum and soldered brass do not have an endurance limit. What that means is that the material will eventually fail no matter what load is placed on it. It may be years, decades, but they will eventually fail under a load. It is a way to minimize noise too. Mounting components in rubber dampens transmitted noise. So mounting a radiator directly to the core support can and often does work. Most of these cars don't see a lot of miles which tends to mask structural issues.

 

[1moretoy]

Mounting the radiator in rubber bushings is a way to reduce the loads on the radiator which improves life. Aluminum and soldered brass do not have an endurance limit. What that means is that the material will eventually fail no matter what load is placed on it. It may be years, decades, but they will eventually fail under a load. It is a way to minimize noise too. Mounting components in rubber dampens transmitted noise. So mounting a radiator directly to the core support can and often does work. Most of these cars don't see a lot of miles which tends to mask structural issues.

I'll see what I can come up wit for bushings.

 

[1moretoy]

Well.... I hit my first road block. Test fit the headers last night and the pass side is pretty much touching the motor mount bolt. I can barely slip a credit card in between the bolt and primary.

The drivers side is way off. Currently working with Bill @ Riley motorsports on the fix. He's been very good to deal with. He actually responded to me at 1am. Talk about customer service.

We will probably have to move the motor back 3/8 or so. Question is, can I install a 45* fitting on the coolant crossover temp sensor? Doing this, I should be able to keep the factory manifold. Try not to buy new aftermarket one.

 

[1moretoy]

A fun update... I received my ported blower back from Brett @ Jokerz performance today. Really pleased with the port work. The packaging was next level, so nice, I'll be keeping it. Can't wait to get this thing purring.