Wipers not working correctly

[ColoradoCuda]

Hello all,
I've had my 71 Cuda for a few years now, when I bought it the seller told me the wipers did not work, he had the motor rebuilt (or replaced, I forget), but they did not work. The wiper arms were mismatched and not great looking, so I took them off. I never drive in rain, so not really an issue. Well, I'd like them to work. I took the grilles off and cleaned up a bit in there, but it was pretty good. Sprayed a little silicone on the couple of joints I could see. I assume the fully counter-clockwise position is off/park. When I turn to the first detent, the mechanism seems to work OK. At the second detent, it either stays the same, or just stops. The third detent does nothing. Back to first and it runs. Back to off/park, it reverses direction and parks (like I think it is supposed to).

Does this seem like a bad switch? Is there a way I can test by doing anything with the wires on the motors gearbox (there are a couple of wires there)?
If it is the switch, how hard is it to swap? Any general guidance? When I've loosened that section of the dash in the past, it doesn't pull out very far to allow access to the connections (or even see them).

I'm attaching a photo of the motor and a video of the mechanism running. Thanks for any help! I guess I don't know how (or if you can) to attach the video.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you should have 3 speeds , CCW from low it should reverse 7 park , it is common for the wipers to hang up on the chrome at the bottom of the windsheild & the park switch burns out , you could have the wrong switch .

 

[Steve340]

The functions of the wiper motor itself can be tested by connecting jumper wires - but it is a bit complicated to do.
I think Resto Rick has the info on what to connect to test the motor.
!971 should have the variable speed switch.

 

[EW1BH27]

Here's my video on testing a variable/3speed wiper motor. Doesn't need to be removed, jumpers can be clipped inside the plug. With all the linkage and wipers attached you'll need to use the battery. My bench test is just with a 12v P/S.

 

[ColoradoCuda]

Thanks for the replies. Does it seem more likely a switch or a motor problem?

 

[rklein71]

The switch can be tested as well. I know that the switch needs have a ground. The ground goes through the casing on the switch onto the switch panel. The switch panel should have a ground to the body to complete the circuit.

 

[Steve340]

I would try the switch as the motor seems to work and park. They are fairly easy to access and inspect.
Try the ground as rklien71 has suggested.

 

[Challenger RTA]

All the information above is good.

when I bought it the seller told me the wipers did not work, he had the motor rebuilt (or replaced, I forget), but they did not work.

Well that doesn't make them work. No matter.
Here is something that just happened today. This does relate to your problem.
Someone called me and said the hot water tank was not working. They check for power and it was there. I said I'll get some parts and change it out. $30 cheap maintenance. 2 elements and 2 thermostats. When I got there they told me the stove was not working.
Ok that changes things. I check for voltage and it was there but seemed a bit low. I checked the panel same thing. Ok now there is a problem in the service drop or the power lines. I suspected a bad neutral. so When I was changed the parts on the water tank. The lights went out and were in the dark 50+ homes.The power co was there. They redid the neutral on the pole with the transformer.

So my option would be to clean on the wiper motor, the brass strap, screw. nut and the threads on the stud. Establish a good ground and check to the battery with test light.
Next if that dose not work remove plug and check to see if you have power at the bulkhead connector.

I'm sometimes right about thesis things.

 

[ColoradoCuda]

Thanks Challenger RTA, I will try that if I can easily access my switch.
If it is the switch, I have priced them and think I may just live without fully functioning wipers!

 

[EW1BH27]

if I can easily access my switch.

I've never found an easy way to get at the switches so I've always removed the switch panel. One tip I can give is to stuff something into the trim panel gap above the lower left screw because it will inevitably fall in there. The harness might be tight back there too so you'll have fun plugging everything back in.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Dull the tape on pants before you put on cluster just to be safe.

 

[ColoradoCuda]

What is the tape for?

 

[MoparCarGuy]

I have not read the entire thread yet but noticed immediately that pictured wiper motor is clocked incorrectly. E-Body clocking for part number 3431077 is shown in photos below. I will attempt to read all of the thread soon.
@ns1aar is the wiper motor expert member. Hopefully, he can chime in on troubleshooting.

 

[EW1BH27]

What is the tape for?

Protection from scratches as you wiggle the switch panel off.

 

[Challenger RTA]

What is the tape for?

Prevent scratching.

 

[ColoradoCuda]

Wow, good catch on the clocking! Could that have anything to do with the trouble I'm having? If so, is it simply a matter of removing the five screws and re-clocking it?

 

[Challenger RTA]

So when you get your wipers sorted out and can see. You'll look down at your gauges and not be able to see them well. Go here . Dash lights a Brighter possibility

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Wow, good catch on the clocking! Could that have anything to do with the trouble I'm having? If so, is it simply a matter of removing the five screws and re-clocking it?

The wiper function is a complicated beast considering the dash switch and the motor/linkage as culprits.
I wish I had the knowledge to aid troubleshooting the electrical but you should verify the mechanical first. The link arms including the crank arm has to be right for everything to work properly.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The wiper function is a complicated beast considering the dash switch and the motor/linkage as culprits.
I wish I had the knowledge to aid troubleshooting the electrical but you should verify the mechanical first. The link arms including the crank arm has to be right for everything to work properly.

View attachment 130251

Yeah disconnect it from the motor. Then see how it works.

 

[EW1BH27]

The only linkage parts unique to ‘70 - ‘71 variable speed setup are:
1. 2822289, the crank coming off the motor
2. 2822293, the link from the crank to the left pivot.