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Could be the choke. My Edelbrock RPM heads had no exhaust cross over drilled.

That certainly is an odd one to sort out. Hopefully the new bits sort it out. Can you post an update?

I don't think it is a seat tag or a radio support. Notice the little raised barbs to bite through paint. I think it is some kind of earth strap - either for the map light or perhaps the heater box. The factory may have used the same strap in two places?

This may help to clear up some confusion - or add to it. Page 8-100 of my 1971 factory service manual shows the plate clocking position listed by car model.

I would try the switch as the motor seems to work and park. They are fairly easy to access and inspect. Try the ground as rklien71 has suggested.

You could run a wanted advert - but watch out for scammers. I would only deal with known members. Edelbrock carbs have been advertised here before. Buying second hand carburettors is a gamble at best. Have you tried Woodruff - he could have a good core.

The functions of the wiper motor itself can be tested by connecting jumper wires - but it is a bit complicated to do. I think Resto Rick has the info on what to connect to test the motor. !971 should have the variable speed switch.

You used to get "wrinkle" specific paint in the past. You had to bake it in the oven.

They will need to lightly hone those lifter bores - that will probably resolve the problem. It will need to be stripped and cleaned unfortunately.

My build date is November 12 - brown wire so that checks with the info posted by EW1BH27. Mine is a reproduced fender tag but no L25.

You are right I have got that backwards I was going from memory. Bill Meerholz will be right.

I cannot remember were I found this out. The trunk light is also different between 1970 and I think 1971 - 74. The colour of the wire is different. The 1970 is a brown wire the 1971 on is black. My car is a early November 1970 built car and it had several 1970 pieces on it including the trunk...

That repair is pretty close to what appears to be the main fuel line - watch out for that also. The best idea in general terms is to cut and remove the damaged area and graft in new metal. A good body man could do it so most people would never know the car had been damaged.

340 cars only had 2 lines. The main fuel feed to the pump and the fuel tank vapor saver line connected to the valve cover breather. This info is correct for 1971 but things may have changed for 1973 but I don't think so. The third line is for the "fuel vapor separator" and is only fitted to the...

I believe I have seen that red tinge in my console also. I think that it is a colour "coming" out in the make-up of the plastic. I would not use a solvent in case it goes wrong. A gentle wash then a good quality plastic protectant. Don't fix what ain't broken.

I you have the old manifolds/exhaust system you can use those to break the motor in. Post #3 is right from what I know. I was told by boss of the coatings company to install the coated header, wipe clean with prepsol and then run the engine for a few minutes and switch it off and allow the...

I guess another thing to consider is - how buckled would the body shell be if that bracket were damaged. Pretty badly damaged IMO.

I cannot remember - but from your pictures it would appear to be made that way. It would be hard to bend it and not buckle the mounting ears. How does it fit on the dash frame?

The power steering pump does appear right.

If you are going to buy a new camshaft get the timing chain that suits the new cam.