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1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

moparlee

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Nice work at that new paint. I have seen both flat and satin black on the core support and cowl, so not sure which one is correct.
 

DetMatt1

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I looked and it appears to be a satin finish. I pulled this document that Steve posted from my "Winter Project" thread.
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340challconvert

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DetMatt
Thanks for the factory diagram
.
I was thinking of using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Black
It has a light satin finish and would add another layer of protection.
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quapman

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The survivor cars I've seen have been dead flat black. I use krylon "Flat Black". If you want satin, use "Matte Black".
 

340challconvert

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If you look at my tear down pics from the beginning of this restoration post, the blackout paint looks flat black, but I have seen some cars done in the matte finish.
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quapman

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I've always wondered if the black gets flatter as the car is driven, due to road debris, dirt, wear, etc.
 

340challconvert

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As I look at what was blacked out on the front radiator support and brace:
With the brace cleaned up-
Front of brace and sides blacked out
Back of brace, yellow with little or no paint and top was underside not painted. Paint was flat black on the brace also.
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340challconvert

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Finally removed the original cracked windshield for a tinted replacement.
Window channel seems pretty good except for some surface rust at the top.
Looking to CAREFULLY remove the stainless convertible header molding in order to inspect metal condition underneath before installing the new windshield.
Luckily, the channel still shows black paint under the sealer in most places.

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moparlee

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It's nice that you didn't find any surprises in the window channel as that can be problem area. While you are there, go ahead and replace those windshield trim clips and screws.
 

DetMatt1

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Looks great. I had a hole at the bottom channel near the driver's side wiper mount that I had to patch.
 

340challconvert

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Removal of the convertible windshield frame stainless went easier then I thought it would. Always worried about how others described this process.
Removed all the screws, scraped the extraneous butyl in the window frame with a utility knife.
Removed all inside trim molding
Used a thin, strong scraper and slowly pushed underneath from the back of the molding, using a pushing motion across the header.
You could feel the "sponge-like" sealer loosen up.
Did this several time, took the molding out with the side pieces attached.

NO damage-very happy with the removal especially after 47 years.
The windshield track is in good condition, no holes with some surface rust and some pitting that overall cleaned up with a wire wheel.
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What is a good replacement material when I reinstall the stainless? The material looked like it served to raise and even out the stainless. It looks like foam insulation that is impregnated with a tar substance.

There was also some body putty put at the top seams I assume to level out the track to make the surface flat.

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IRON MAN

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If you need to repair any minor rust perforation or scars from rust in the windshield channel I found JB Weld to be the perfect filler in getting the track perfectly smooth. Virtually a permanent fix.
 

DetMatt1

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Just make sure you completely neutralize the rust first. Iirc I coated the hole channel in black por 15 per the installers suggestion.
 

340challconvert

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What is this piece?
Found this plastic insert under the stainless header in the top of my Challenger convertible. Part was on drivers side laying next to the tab that the stainless header screws into.
Piece appears to have a snap tab at the bottom to be inserted into something.
I am familiar with the white inserts that go into the top of header panel where the placement studs for the vert top go into. This is different. Any thoughts?
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340challconvert

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Front windshield header/window channel cleaned up well.
Wire brushing down to metal and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator works great.
Rust proofed the top of the convertible header- Will be covered, but wanted it to be clean and rust free!
Sprayed rust converter into the screw holes to seal up inside the header.
Need to use a small amount of body filler at the four weld seams as per the factory and by the one area where there was some pitting, then will cover the surface with epoxy to seal it up.
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