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1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

340challconvert

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I use the Blair bit's. Center punch the spot weld, use an 1/8th drill bit and drill A pilot hole. I try not to go all the way through. slowly drill the spot weld keeping the bit straight. when you see the top of the blades disappear you are through the first layer. I like doing this instead of drilling all the way through. My 2 cents!
JS
Thanks for your thoughts on this!
Want to make sure I don't screw it up and will take my time.
 

CJMopar

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Really nice restoration I like it. Everything is documented in detail for this 1970 Dodge Challenger a66 convertible. What a great looking Mopar.
 

340challconvert

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Also looking at USA made spot weld cutter kit from Blair.
These kits got top ratings

5/16'' Premium Spotweld Cutter Kit w/ Pilot Pin
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Also picked up the Blair Kit. Thanks for the recommendations.
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340challconvert

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Starting cleaning up and re-doing the rear brakes on the A66 vert.
Still recording date codes: Parking brake bar cleaned up with a date code of 175-9 = June 24, 1969-early for my sbd of October 6th.
The brake shoe bar w a code of 272-9 =September 29th, 1969 closer to the early October scheduled build date.
Also went looking for correct Bendix rear drum brake cylinders; found one NOS and made in USA. Looking for another. Plenty of other brands out there.
Original cast number 29477 = Bendix # 33597
Backing plate cleans up nicely and will add all new hardware.
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340challconvert

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Found an original Bendix USA made brake cylinder last week, and bought some NOS rear brake drums 10 x 2 1/2 about 10 years ago that I will finally use.
Also found some original Bendix Brake hardware kit for both back wheels: H7133
Love it when I can find original USA made parts wherever I can!
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moparlee

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Looking back 10 years ago, you must have had a vision of someday restoring your Challenger. Kinda fun to bring out those parts and dusting them off!. That Bendix wheel cylinder even has a brass bleeder fitting.
 

340challconvert

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I kept an Excel Spreadsheet over the years and recorded any parts I found, bought, or kept from some of the cars I had over the years. I recorded the part numbers and price paid at the time. I paid $40.00 for the pair of rear brake drums in 2005. It helps me keep track of what I have and what I need.
It drives me crazy when I look for something that is on my inventory and can't find it; despite the parts being labeled and boxed. It is fun though!
May be my imagination, but the NOS parts just seem and feel better (besides fitting better in some cases)
Thank you for your positive comments.
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340challconvert

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Finally completed the driver's side rear wheel well and brakes. Sheet metal was good and everything cleaned up real well. Cleaned and sprayed the brake backing plate, installed new brake parts and brake lines.
Rt side passenger side will need some work. As I strip off the factory undercoat, found some rust that will require patches (front of wheel well and wheel lip.)
Oh well, have gotten away easy with the rust so far.
Still consider myself lucky, could be worse!
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340challconvert

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Will rust proof the rocker panel from the wheel well side and weld in a new patch. This was under the under coating!
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moparlee

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Yep, you are dodging the rust gremlins really good so far. You are doing the right thing in removing the old under coating since those rust areas are from the inside surfaces out.
 

340challconvert

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Now the real dirty work begins.
Trunk in my A66 Challenger is the part of the body that needs the most work on my car. I expect to replace the trunk floor and may be the side floor panel overhangs. Looks like I will also have to patch the bottom of the right wheel well. Noticed the rust as I cleaned out the wheel well undercoating. The left wheel well was great. Stripping out the body seam sealer and assessing what is good or bad.
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340challconvert

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Picture of where the original floor which was fixed w a pop riveted panel patched many years ago.
Damage on the wheel well; small patch.
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