'73 Challenger Rallye Restoration
- Thread starter Bill
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moparleo
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Bill, what year are the bumpers on your car?
73 or 74 Leo. Not sure. They are 40+ years old and a little pitted. Will more than likely get some new ones some day. I'm learning that when you have a nice paint job and other nice clean new parts on the car used parts start to stand out like not so perfect like bumpers and trim rings on the wheels.
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moparleo
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That is a fact. I was wondering about the bumper because you said you were going to put the smaller bumperetts on it and I don't think that they will work on the 73-74 bumper.
Hmm... I will need to make some special brackets and drill some holes to make them look okay. My main goal is to just get the slots in the rear lower valance covered. I will spend some time with the bumpers this winter.
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moparleo
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How much fluid is in the master ? Show me the leak ( picture please)
I filled up to about 3/4 full then it leaks out to less than 1/4 full. The cap does not have a good seal onto the master cylinder. It leaks all down the sides of the reservoir and onto the paint and brake lines and wiring and anything else you don't want brake fluid to be on. I keep having to wash that area after I take it for a ride. Just tried bending the wire clamp to make it tighter. I just cut another gasket to go around the sealed area only. That in conjunction with the regular gasket may make a better seal. I'm on vacation this week and will have time to play with it. Went to NAPA yesterday and they said the factory gasket is no longer available. Hopefully someone still makes it. One of the problems with the leaking is I purchased a new master cylinder that was re manufactured by NAPA. The sealing rim area is pitted somewhat not allowing a nice seal. Also the thickness of the paint I put on it (sides only of course) is not allowing the cap to sit (snap on) properly. Looked at tome other forums with Jeep guys having the same issue.
74chlngrTT5.9
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I had a problem a couple of years ago on a replacement master. It ended up being a small seep type leak out of the lid clip hole in the back of the housing.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
Thanks for the info! This is blatantly weeping out from around the lit seal itself. I bent the wire clip to try to get it to put more pressure on it. It help a little bit but the outside of the reservoir still gets wet and starts to drip off of the bottom. I wouldn't feel so bad if it wasn't nasty break fluid leaking.
moparleo
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Bill, that is one reason to never buy a " NEW? " , "rebuilt". It is either new, or it is rebuilt. One of my "few" never do it rules. Master cylinder rule, only buy "new" name brand m/c. You only get one good stab at the brakes when you really need them. And I know several guys will say that they have been using them for years with no problems. Unfortunately , most people haven't had very many cars to have had a lot of experience. Auto motive repair was my profession for over 25 years and serviced many, many braking systems. Not worth the few dollars saved. Not with my life at stake.
Breaks work great. Just trying to figure out the leak issue. I seem to have resolved it. The original tin cover is 43 years old and not applying the proper pressure on all of the surface that is needed to make a seal all the way around. A local mechanic that just got my A/C charged up and going today said that he has seen the caps leak like this a lot over the many years he has been a mechanic. He mentioned to try an aftermarket lid from JEGS or Summit instead of the original tin lid but for now I am all set.
74chlngrTT5.9
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That was my other thought to check the lid and make sure it is flat on the sealing surface.Breaks work great. Just trying to figure out the leak issue. I seem to have resolved it. The original tin cover is 43 years old and not applying the proper pressure on all of the surface that is needed to make a seal all the way around. A local mechanic that just got my A/C charged up and going today said that he has seen the caps leak like this a lot over the many years he has been a mechanic. He mentioned to try an aftermarket lid from JEGS or Summit instead of the original tin lid but for now I am all set.
Kowalski plate does not match my year Challenger but the Alpine white and pistol grip are the same. A guy with a nice Corvette at this show of about 300 cars said that my car was "best in show". Having a lot of fun this summer!!! It's not even July in Vermont and I have put over 5,000 miles on the car so far this year. About time for another oil change. Can't seem to stay out of it (lol).
I'm currently trying to figure out why I am getting carbon monoxide in the car. The exhaust has been all welded together and I am getting no CO readings near any of the joints in the exhaust system. It is coming into the trunk. When driving down the highway with the windows up I am getting about 30 to 40 steady PPM's of CO. OSHA says that 50 PPM in an 8 your work day is good but I would like for it to be ZERO. The CO reading is worse in the trunk so that's where it is coming in from into the car. I have looked in every little nook and cranny using a flashlight in the dark and spraying water in that area from the outside with a garden hose to find and leaks in the trunk. I even closed my daughter in the trunk and shined a light around the rear of the car and the trunk lid gasket to see if there was any light coming in. It all seems to be sealed up. Very frustrating!!. I borrowed someone else's CO meter to make sure mine was working okay and they both reading pretty close to each other. I do not smell exhaust in the car. There is a slight exhaust smell on something that has been in the trunk for a while. If the PPM in the cab is around 30 the PPM reading in the trunk is in the 60's venturing me to believe it is coming in through the trunk. With the windows all the way down the PPM reading is still in the teens. I have all new gaskets, seam sealer, gas tank fill tube (that I silicone sealed), and I lizard skinned all of that area on both sides of the metal. I guess the answer is simple.... "It's coming in from somewhere". Has anyone else ever put a CO meter in their car to check for carbon monoxide? I'm a little hesitant to take a long trip in the car. Again, CO reading is worse in the trunk.
js29
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were dose the exhaust exit? how are the seal's around your tail lights!
Seals around the tail lights are new and look good. All body plugs are in. Get a little water drip that comes through the key lock when I blast water on it but that's the only area. Exhaust comes out the back valance.
moparleo
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Bill, I think you are going to have to do a smoke test. Serious, not kidding. This is done for just the reason you are doing, to find a leak. Look it up on line. Good luck.
I was thinking about that. I sell smoke candles at work to test warm air furnace heat exchangers.
I wonder if one of these would work? I could pressurize the car with a blower or air hose through the window and put this in the trunk.
Chauvet H-700 Hurricane 700 Halloween Fog/Smoke Effect Machine + Fluid + Remote
Thanks!
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