• Welcome to For E Bodies Only !

    We are a community of Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Challenger owners. Join now! Its Free!

Bad ECU?

73Mopar

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Hey guys, I'm new to to this forum and comin here out of sheer desperation (my mopar's ignition has all but defeated me :angry4:). My 73 challenger with a 340 has the stock ignition setup. A few weeks ago, i started my car after a carb swap and all was well... For about 5 seconds. The motor shut off, and i discovered a broken fuse in the engine bay going to the bulkhead. After replacing the fuse, i was able to turn the motor over, but was not getting any spark. After a long 3 days replacing the coil, dist. Pickup and rotor, starter relay and ballast resistor, the problem turned out to be the ECU. replaced it with a blue ecu from O'riley's and all was well... Except for the battery not getting a charge from the alternator. So after replacing the alternator, i concluded that the voltage regulator must be at fault. I disconnected the battery, swapped in the new VR, and started the car. I gave it a bit of gas to warm the engine up (since how there is no choke) and She ran smoothly... For about 8 seconds before dying and blowing the fuse out in the engine bay. So i am back to square 1. Any suggestions?? Keep in mind that this is not a stock motor and it achieved max power at a 6500 rpm dyno run... Idk if that affects the stock ignition or not.
 

Chryco Psycho

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
4,687
Reaction score
2,320
Location
Panama
if it is burning out the fusable link you have a high load somewhere in the system , I would start acing the wiring through the bulkhead connector to the ign switch ammeter & back out through the bulkhead , sounds like you have a corrosion problem , clean all the contacts & coat them with di-electric grease , you may have to repair some of the connections as well
 

challenger6pak

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
4,068
Reaction score
917
I agree. Go through all the wiring. Don't bypass the fuseable link!!!! You will most likely cause a fire in the dash at the ammeter.
 

moparleo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
7,097
Reaction score
1,881
Location
So. Cal. Riverside area Moreno Valley
Replace the fuse and disconnect the alternator charging wire. Check voltage at the battery before you start it. Make sure you have at least 12.06 volts before you start. We are checking the charging system for faults. If it starts and does not blow the fuse again, we know it is in the starting/ignition circuit.
 
Back
Top