Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The problem was never the amp gauge. It was the the use of it feeding the load and battery state of charge through the under rated bulkhead connectors. Then there is a possibility of a high current short, from the alternator being shorted out or headlight dimmer switch. At a minimum it melts the wiring together and fuses the bulkhead connectors that are already corroded. Other contributors to the problem are high current loads. Such as headlights, fan, rear defroster if there is one installed. Power windows are a whole other thing. Or added loads.
The Black wire R6 12BK That feeds the load when engine is running, in the original configuration. Could be used to supply the split load along with the original 16 to red wire A 12R. Since the state of charge and load is being freed from the alternator bypass. With both feeds from the battery on the same fusible link you still have the same protection. Then there are two feeds through two bulkhead connectors and to the battery side of the fuse block. 15-30 amps each. not just one 15-30 amps. On one fusible link. And the battery state of charge is through the bypass.
As above I did the above. 6GA bypass. I had no choice the amp gauge wires were melted.( More than likely from driving un countless hours of night driving to the base. Could at times smell something hot.) And in addition removed amp gauge and installed a voltage gauge. Removed headlight feed from splice one and installed headlight fused relay circuit through fuse block. Changed 4 way feed to the horn fuse.
The only thing that is not fused yet the wiper motor from splice 3. Might piggy back on acc side fuse block or do an inline fuse, or add a small fuse box using one of the disconnected ammeter wires. I couldn't do that I cut them and removed they were in bad shape! Keep that in mind. If in good condition the disconnected ammeter wires can be used to feed other fused circuits. And tie together to feed ignition switch.
Note when the alt and battery wires are removed from amp meter. There has to be an alternate feed to the ignition switch. As before it was feed from slice one and it was all tied together. Battery, alternator,headlights and feed to ignition switch to feed accessory side of fuse block.
An other opinion would be to connect the alternator to the starter relay or the starter + connection. Then to feed the alt bulkhead connector from the fusible link. Then there are two 15-30 amp circuits.
And yes an independent 8GA or lager to both sides of amp gauge would be acquitted. Getting it there is an other thing.
A while back. I stared drawing up the rewire and had a computer crash, just didn't get back to it.
The Black wire R6 12BK That feeds the load when engine is running, in the original configuration. Could be used to supply the split load along with the original 16 to red wire A 12R. Since the state of charge and load is being freed from the alternator bypass. With both feeds from the battery on the same fusible link you still have the same protection. Then there are two feeds through two bulkhead connectors and to the battery side of the fuse block. 15-30 amps each. not just one 15-30 amps. On one fusible link. And the battery state of charge is through the bypass.
As above I did the above. 6GA bypass. I had no choice the amp gauge wires were melted.( More than likely from driving un countless hours of night driving to the base. Could at times smell something hot.) And in addition removed amp gauge and installed a voltage gauge. Removed headlight feed from splice one and installed headlight fused relay circuit through fuse block. Changed 4 way feed to the horn fuse.
The only thing that is not fused yet the wiper motor from splice 3. Might piggy back on acc side fuse block or do an inline fuse, or add a small fuse box using one of the disconnected ammeter wires. I couldn't do that I cut them and removed they were in bad shape! Keep that in mind. If in good condition the disconnected ammeter wires can be used to feed other fused circuits. And tie together to feed ignition switch.
Note when the alt and battery wires are removed from amp meter. There has to be an alternate feed to the ignition switch. As before it was feed from slice one and it was all tied together. Battery, alternator,headlights and feed to ignition switch to feed accessory side of fuse block.
An other opinion would be to connect the alternator to the starter relay or the starter + connection. Then to feed the alt bulkhead connector from the fusible link. Then there are two 15-30 amp circuits.
And yes an independent 8GA or lager to both sides of amp gauge would be acquitted. Getting it there is an other thing.
A while back. I stared drawing up the rewire and had a computer crash, just didn't get back to it.
Last edited:
