Inline fuse continues to blow fuses

[Challenger RTA]

Fuses might make a difference if something is turned on. by chance where you against the brake pedal? That might complete the circuit. There is a lot of different things. The idea is to isolate the dash harness. By disconnecting other harness .

Should I purposely move some of the wires around that go from Molex to bulkhead area and see if I get continuity readings again? Yes.

Did you take the fuse box off the firewall and inspect.

Under the driver's kick panel there is a plug for the rear harness. It can be disconnected the brakes and lights but that's probably not the problem.

 

[magg383]

Fuses might make a difference if something is turned on. by chance where you against the brake pedal? That might complete the circuit. There is a lot of different things. The idea is to isolate the dash harness. By disconnecting other harness .

No, I was not against brake pedal. I just tried moving the wires that go from molex to bulkhead around several times and still get no continuity after ea. try.
So now that there is NO continuity between red and the other 4 main wires, which is what we wanted, what do you now suggest?

 

[Challenger RTA]

I would still open it up. The connections are broken now but can still short out. Take the fuse box off the firewall and see if their melted there to start.

Unplug turn signal sw.

 

[magg383]

I would still open it up. The connections are broken now but can still short out. Take the fuse box off the firewall and see if their melted there to start.

Unplug turn signal sw.

Well, I just checked the back of the fuse block, and everything looks normal. I had to twist it to get a good look.
So, I thought after the twisting, I would check connections for continuity again.
Well, now there is continuity AGAIN w/ Q2-12BK, so there must be some open wires under the harness tape

I guess I will be doing some tape removal.
Would it better to use a clothing seam ripper vs. trying to unwrap the tape?

 

[magg383]

This is the area where to look for the problem. Be sure to check the Black and red wires all the way the the amp gauge. This is splice one opened up. The splice is I think is never the problem. It's the heat generated by the load going though the splice wires.
View attachment 129451

So there is spliced wires wrapped separately under the electrical tape that needs to be untaped also?
Did you do yours while in or out of car?
Also, should I skip that 1st section like you did?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Unwrap the ones that are wrapped that are suspect. Slice one is wrapped in a friction tape. There is no need to undo if there is no damage. The wrap around the harness in not a sticky electrical tape. It's a vinyl wrap tape only, that is wrapped back on it's self to start and finish.

One thing to note. A battery disconnect is not part of original wiring and installed incorrectly can give erratic readings. Such as the chassis ground not connected also. Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Bad or loose connections will effect the system. Example the chassis ground is what it is labeled same as the motor ground. To an extent they are isolated from each other. That's why there are two.

 

[magg383]

Unwrap the ones that are wrapped that are suspect. Slice one is wrapped in a friction tape. There is no need to undo if there is no damage. The wrap around the harness in not a sticky electrical tape. It's a vinyl wrap tape only, that is wrapped back on it's self to start and finish.

One thing to note. A battery disconnect is not part of original wiring and installed incorrectly can give erratic readings. Such as the chassis ground not connected also. Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Bad or loose connections will effect the system. Example the chassis ground is what it is labeled same as the motor ground. To an extent they are isolated from each other. That's why there are two.

1) How do I know which sections are suspect?
2)How do I know if there is damage under the splice friction tape sections w/o opening them?
3)Did you do yours in or out of car?

 

[Challenger RTA]

1) How do I know which sections are suspect? The wires you have been testing. All of them that are in the column harness to the bulkhead connector.
2)How do I know if there is damage under the splice friction tape sections w/o opening them? That splice never has a problem. Open it up you might find something.
3)Did you do yours in or out of car? In the car. Remove the driver seat.

You need to open the harness up so you know what it is like.

 

[magg383]

This is the area where to look for the problem. Be sure to check the Black and red wires all the way the the amp gauge. This is splice one opened up. The splice is I think is never the problem. It's the heat generated by the load going though the splice wires.
View attachment 129451

In this picture, it looks like your issue was under your splice friction tape. Correct?
Also, is it easier to try to unwrap the tape or try to open it w/ a clothing seam ripper as I have read is an option?

 

[Challenger RTA]

The picture was an example I found. The wires in splice one . I had a problem with the brown wire ing start. It was repaired at the firewall connector. But I also had problem with the amp gauge wires red and black that caused the problem. They where melted. So I removed them and installed a voltage gauge.

 

[magg383]

In this picture, it looks like your issue was under your splice friction tape. Correct?
Also, is it easier to try to unwrap the tape or try to open it w/ a clothing seam ripper as I have read is an option?

What about question #2?
Also, what is meant by splice #1?

 

[Challenger RTA]

What about question #2?
Also, what is meant by splice #1?

2)How do I know if there is damage under the splice friction tape sections w/o opening them? That splice never has a problem. Open it up you might find something.

You are going to have to open the harness.
This is splice one.

 

[magg383]

What about question #2?
Also, what is meant by splice #1?

You are going to have to open the harness.
This is splice one.

View attachment 129484

1)So splice #1 is considered the wires that are wrapped up that go from the molex to the bulkhead/ fuse box? 2)This is where the issue should be then? 3)I shouldn't have to worry about any of the wires that split off at that main large 3way intersection that go over to passenger side area then?

 

[Challenger RTA]

In general yes . You have to consider all the wires wrapped, along side, twisted in between. What ever those wires come in physical contact with they heat up and melt.

 

[magg383]

In general yes . You have to consider the wires wrapped, along side, twisted in between. What ever those wires come in physical contact with they heat up and melt.

In this picture, it looks like your issue was under your splice friction tape. Correct?
Also, is it easier to try to unwrap the tape or try to open it w/ a clothing seam ripper as I have read is an option?

What about question #2 in this post #89

 

[Challenger RTA]

Also, is it easier to try to unwrap the tape or try to open it w/ a clothing seam ripper as I have read is an option?

Didn't see it. It can be cut open if you have the tape to re wrap. If not cut close to an end and see which way it unwraps and reuse.

 

[magg383]

This is the area where to look for the problem. Be sure to check the Black and red wires all the way the the amp gauge. This is splice one opened up. The splice is I think is never the problem. It's the heat generated by the load going though the splice wires.
View attachment 129451

Well, I got the tape removed from bulkhead and molex each to the Y and it all looks good to there.

Looks like this person's issue in this picture was further up the harness yet.
Not much room to work with under there!
I'll see how much further I can get in the next few days.