More free opinion:
Update im completely shot out in the dark and this is crazy and only thing im to believe is something inside alternator is not connecting the dots maybe
I may be a skilled over-thinker, and often get bitten by my own anxiety and curiosity. Be careful not to over think what you're seeing, and get yourself all spun out. We may not have an answer for every one of your questions. Some, perhaps most, of them don't need to be researched and answered.
Low to no charge issue. Thoughts issue with alternator? Or something im missing everything else below tested out
The alternator contains 3 or more diodes. These can go bad with age, one by one, or even fail when pulling the battery terminal while the engine is running. As each diode goes, the output voltage of the alternator gets lower and lower. I've had the experience of pulling a low-performing alternator, presumably with only one working diode, take it down the to parts store for testing, only to be told it's functioning fine.
If you are seeing 14+ volts anytime-anywhere, then I suggest your alternator is NOT underperforming.
RUNNING battery at 12.4 not charging at 13.5-14. If I remove voltage regulator connection charge drops even more to 11.9.
Increasing throttle couple thousand RPMs only moved charge to 12.6 at battery.
Careful running a partial system with the engine running, and/or disconnecting things while the alternator is outputting voltage. You can ruin/break your voltage regulator or alternator doing this.
Don't waste your time taking measurements with the engine at idle. Few alternators from this era can output decent voltage under 1000 RPM. But your target of 2000 RPM is a good place to take measurements.
KEY OFF Alternator BATTERY terminal matches battery
KEY ON Alternator 1 point drop normal loss
KEY ON-Alternator field terminal blue 12.58
RUNNING Alternator BATTERY terminal 14.03
If you're seeing 14.03 volts output from the alternator, I'm going on record that it's performing fine. If you have a charging issue, it's elsewhere.
Alternator charges with lower charge field wire jump test (simulating green wire terminal)
KEY OFF WIRE HEALTH TESTING AT 200 ohms
Green field wire from voltage regulator side connector head to alternator side field terminal connector 00.8 ohms resistance
Blue field wire from connector head to field terminal connector 00.8 ohms resistance
Alternator battery charge wire (black) to bulk head (firewall side)00.6 ohms
Bulk head charge wire (firewall side)to starter relay (red)1.4 ohms resistance
Alternator ground terminal post wire to cylinder head 00.9 ohms
Green field wire with key on sparked when connecting jumper to either the voltage regulator connector side or alternator field connector side.
Interior bulk head side
Black charge wire to ammeter from ammeter terminal to bulk head connection 00.7ohms
Red charge wire to ammeter from ammeter terminal to bulk head connection 00.8ohms
Key on - Both sides red and black wires going into ammeter had 1 point volt drop. Matches the battery terminal on the alternator.
I don't believe the resistance of many of these wires/circuits are documented by the service manual. Asking someone to go "buzz out" their charging system to document these numbers may be academic and afford little value to others. Many of us are motivated to go test something unusual, only when it seems of value to the community.
One task I have done on several vintage mopars, is cleaning connections. Take your time. Be thorough. This is a hobby for many, and it's supposed to be fun. For some of us, it falls within our retirement, and few of us are in a hurry.
Cleaning every connection in the engine compartment will pay for itself years down the road.
Cleaning procedure:
- disconnect a given connection
- observe the connection for rust or corrosion
- clean using acetone, a degreaser, or whatever seems appropriate
- (optional) grease (to protect further oxidation) using clear silicon grease.
- replace connection
In your case, I would clean every connection in the engine compartment. The includes the bulk-head connectors, and every other crimp and bolted connection I could find.
After doing all of that, if you still have charging issues, they may be pretty easy to find, because the system should be functioning precisely as it did when it rolled off the assembly line. It's remotely possible you may need to repeat the cleaning procedure inside the passenger compartment, focussing on those connections from the bulkhead to the instrument panel.
Having said all this, for those reading this later to resolve their issues, I suspect your voltage regulator is the problem. The Chinese are still trying to catch up to US-quality-made semiconductors, and if you have a newish voltage regulator, that may be the problem.
