Problem at shop

[Challenger RTA]

Yes.process of elimination. When the key is turned on power is feed to alt from battery.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Now pull cluster. but leave gauges hooked up that you can. unplug one at a time and see what the results are and voltage regulator on back of cluster. One more think before you pull the cluster find the flashers and and unplug.sounds like a electrical or electronic component faille r.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Yep, pulling the connector for the forward lighting harness removes all battery power. Need to leave that one in place, if you removed the connector for engine harness (containing the ignition 1 blue/trace wire) and the problem remains, the issue is on the dash side, eliminates anything under the hood. Again, disconnect the ignition switch Molex, briefly jump the red to blue/trace sockets on the dash side of the Molex, simulates ignition key-on, if the problem goes away, the issue is in the column. Ignition switch blue/trace lead is grounded somewhere in the column.

I wouldn’t recommend pulling the cluster just yet, eliminate the recent work in the column first.

As a follow up, the accessory circuit (black wire at the switch) is also on in the ignition switch run position on that car. Turn the ignition switch to the accessory only position, turn back towards the driver from the lock position, see if the short condition is present in accessory only.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Yes.process of elimination. When the key is turned on power is feed to alt from battery.

What? Not following this statement, "feed to the alt from the battery" explanation? What does the voltage limiter for the gauges have to do with the described key-on short?

 

[Challenger RTA]

When key is on and motor not running,power is feed from battery to alt. When motor is running there is two power sources battery and alt.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Power is not being fed to the alternator from the battery under any conditions. The charge circuit wiring is completed thru the ammeter at all times. Engine not-running, key-on or off, the battery is the only source of power. Engine running, the alternator is the primary source of power. While running, power is only sourced from the battery if the vehicle loads exceed alternator output. Ideally, properly sized alternator and vehicle loads, there shouldn’t be any power sourced from the battery while in operation. All of this unrelated to this short discussion.

 

[Challenger RTA]

An alt needs the field flashed. so where does the power come from the battery. and yes it goes through the amp meter.

 

[Challenger RTA]

A generator has magnets. it doesn't need the field flashed. A generator needs polarity set when a new battery is installed.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Actually, the alternator field supply voltage is sourced via the ignition 1 circuit (blue/trace) in the engine harness, from the bulkhead, ignition switch, splice 1, ammeter, bulkhead again, then on to the battery. Is not sourced directly from the battery. For this discussion, disconnecting the engine harness from the bulkhead, the full-scale discharge ammeter registration does not go away with the key on, it eliminates anything on the engine compartment side of the firewall.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Yes alternator field supply voltage is sourced via the ignition 1 circuit. voltage will go ether way. the field has to be flashed. in a short it will go where the short is. back through the black alt wire coming from battery when car is not running. there is more than one path. the point is the battery supply's the charge for the alt.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Flashed? Go either way? Charge voltage for the alt? What are you talking about? None of this makes any sense.

 

[Challenger RTA]

VillaTA 1 As 70chall440 said perhaps failing or possibly its the regulator on the instrument cluster. I'm not trying to mislead you but to keep from taking cluster out as last resort.or tear steering column apart? 2 guy worked on it, His thoughts are that this sounds like an alternator issue, as something is placing a draw when the ignition is turned on. Alt acting up now and then.rectifier going bad? Is that what caused the electrical component failure or a steering column issue. When you find it what caused the failure? The engine compartment eliminate for sound.but what caused the problem when you find the sound​

 

[VillaTA]

Per request. Fuse panel pics.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Charging Circuit Resistance Test picture,This shows a simple diagram of charging circuit.As your mechanic already determined not the alt? When turning on switch draws power from load side of amp meter. feeds blue with white wire to voltage regulator and other acc circuits. Observe where ign sw is is connected on right side of amp meter in diagram.this is where splice one is( behind or a little below gauge cluster is located.99% of time not a problem) other non sw acc are also connected there.( headlights for one.) As described before from others and myself. unplug engine harness as advised.would narrow it down to the inside. turn on ignition sw unplug turn signal plug see if noise goes away. does horn work good?as someone said unplug column connector try and other ignition sw to eliminate. or look at column wiring install temporary jumpers.

 

[VillaTA]

Another pic of the panel

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

"Shirt only occurred when clicking into ignition 2 position. I don’t want to hijack the thread though."

Shirt? Does the overload/short condition exist with in the accessory only key position, turn the key back or counterclockwise one position from lock.

 

[VillaTA]

"Shirt only occurred when clicking into ignition 2 position. I don’t want to hijack the thread though."

Shirt? Does the overload/short condition exist with in the accessory only key position, turn the key back or counterclockwise one position from lock.

Short. It happens in the second position only. Two clicks then the gauge makes a fluttering noise and it pegs to D. Then goes back to center.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Assuming a completely stock electrical system, no added loads, no short condition in accessory only, with the engine harness disconnected at the bulkhead connector, the short persists in the run position, as previously stated, correct? Again, this eliminates anything under the hood. Disconnect the ignition switch Molex connector, on the dash harness side plug, jump the red and blue/white tracer terminals together, does the short register?

No- the problem is in the column, pinched blue wire or otherwise partially shorted to ground, or internal ignition switch short.

Yes- the blue/white tracer wire run between the Molex and bulkhead connector is partially shorted.

Note: would expect a full dead short to ground on the ignition 1 circuit would be melting wires or blowing the fusible link with the key in the run position.


Just realized I had already this same info on this thread a while back.