No power to dash

[luft29]

Hello gang, I need some help, trying to finish my 73 Cuda build with a ralleye dash, I have power to the dome light, radio and headlights but nothing else, no dash lights, gauges don’t work, wipers or heater, any ideas, I put in all new fuses, bulbs and condenser on the back of the gauge panel, can anyone help, thanks

 

[Challenger RTA]

When you turn the ignition on any change. Does it start? Also watch the amp gauge. Dash lights get a ground through the screws. Other ground is the dash mounting bolts.
1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block, 2:charge wire 18 black wire blue dots to splice one through amp meter to red wire blue dot 16 to battery, 3:ACC feed from splice 1 Red wire Q3_12R yellow dot to steering column. Black wire 12BK red dot to ACC side of fuse box.
Start with a test light on battery to ground. 1 Check to see if you have power at starter relay. 2 unplug bulkhead connector check Red 12 ga wire for power. 3 check fuses box terminal marked BATT for power. 4 Under the steering column unplug connector and check the Red 12 wire. This should always be hot when the battery is connected. The alternator feed will also be hot R6 12 bk.

 

[luft29]

Thanks, it does start with the key, I’ll check what you suggested

 

[mrmopar340]

Hope you haven't had more the 5 volts to the gauges. I burned a set out years ago and they were all dead. I bought a limiter electronic to make sure that didn't happen again. Hope yours aren't cooked like mine were.

 

[luft29]

Trying to trace wires, what a pain, when I pull the emergency blinker button, the right turn signal and high beam light comes on,

 

[mrmopar340]

Trying to trace wires, what a pain, when I pull the emergency blinker button, the right turn signal and high beam light comes on,

I'm tired of that too. I just took mine apart to put new harness in. I got tired of tracing and splicing.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If the 4ways are working outside correctly. someone might have swapped the left signal and hi beam lights. check the connectors under the column and the bulkhead connector.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Check the ground at the heater and the wiper motor. also at the battery.

 

[luft29]

Thanks guys, I’ll try some things tomorrow,

 

[chally71e]

Parts Hound does ebody harness checks/rebuilds with new connectors, wires and wrap if necessary.

I cannot speak to the veracity/quality of the work though. But honestly I'd strongly think about going that way instead of keeping a bunch of splices in the dash likely to burn down my car.

 

[mrmopar340]

Parts Hound does ebody harness checks/rebuilds with new connectors, wires and wrap if necessary.

I cannot speak to the veracity/quality of the work though. But honestly I'd strongly think about going that way instead of keeping a bunch of splices in the dash likely to burn down my car.

That's why I did an updated harness. A smoker short about did me in.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The major problem with the wiring harness, is the amp gauge wire in the wiring harness. The amp gauge can handle it. With the battery connected and a direct short. Such as The alternator wire grounded while battery still connected. Or the battery positive grounded when motor is running. There is a very good chance that it melts those two wires together and others, if not destroy them and others. The fuse-able link might protect them. With anything turned on power will find ground. The bulkhead connectors also play a roll.
In the diagram is where the wire form the alternator feeds Splice 1. From there the ignition switch to Splice 3 to the acc side if fuse box. Also thought Splice 1 feed directly to battery side of fuse box. Also thought Splice 1 charges battery though the amp gauge. And lastly Splice 1 directly feeds the headlight switch.
/// Do you get that!! No circuit protection!!! That's why I suggest a relay circuit for the headlight. The alternator it's self have a build in connection per se.But better safe than sorry then blowing the alternator, a circuit beaker on the back. And a amp meter bypass. Splice 1 it's self is never a problem unless someone alters it.
\\\Splice 3 that is feed from splice 1 through the ing sw,and the connectors under the column. Splice 3 also feeds the wiper motor.

 

[mrmopar340]

The major problem with the wiring harness, is the amp gauge wire in the wiring harness. The amp gauge can handle it. With the battery connected and a direct short. Such as The alternator wire grounded while battery still connected. Or the battery positive grounded when motor is running. There is a very good chance that it melts those two wires together and others, if not destroy them and others. The fuse-able might protect them. With anything turned on power will find ground. The bulkhead connectors also play a roll.
Will be editing.

You ain't kidding. That wire under the steering coloumn always wants to fry more than the others.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Splice 1Never a problem as said. Here is where it can be found if need be.

 

[terrywalker]

Mine shorted at the bulkhead connector in my 72 Challenger. I'm going to do the bypass wiring now although I do have a new bulkhead box.
Terry W.

 

[Challenger RTA]

So the reason I ask if it started it means there is power to splice 1. Everything is feed from there. That's why I said check the grounds and the connectors under the column and bulkhead.
No dash lights, bad dimmer sw. Turn up the dimmer? Gauges don’t work, wipers. Her again check the screws, nuts for ground. Heater bad heater sw or bad motor ground.
This explanation might have been a little long. But it will help others too in the long run.
What makes this work,let us know of you progress.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If you are doing a bypass. Open the harness up to the amp gauge wires and inspect for other damage. It's not that hard. Just watch how it is wrapped and redo it the same way.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Also check the headlight foot sw. It might have cased the problem. Heat tape on the other damaged insulation will fix them. The red wire that has a melted area is it 16? If so and it's not brittle, it has to be used to feed power from the battery through the amp meter to splice 1.Or use an alternative feed to amp gauge to splice 1.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Also use this. Dielectric grease.

 

[luft29]

I have no power in the fuse I have circled, either with the key on, also I installed all new wiring harness in the engine bay,