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Dash flickering intermittent starting

Challenger RTA

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That looks like it is wired as it should be. Bulkhead wires connected together when starting and running. Stock coil and distributor? It' seem like it is a bad connection somewhere.
Your are going to have to go through the process of elimination.
As I suggested unplug the connector and wire up switches to the connector. As I said you can use any sw for test purpose. House light sw. It could be the connector or connectors is not making a good connection all the time.
 

flamesoldier

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That looks like it is wired as it should be. Bulkhead wires connected together when starting and running. Stock coil and distributor? It' seem like it is a bad connection somewhere.
Your are going to have to go through the process of elimination.
As I suggested unplug the connector and wire up switches to the connector. As I said you can use any sw for test purpose. House light sw. It could be the connector or connectors is not making a good connection all the time.
That looks like it is wired as it should be. Bulkhead wires connected together when starting and running. Stock coil and distributor? It' seem like it is a bad connection somewhere.
Your are going to have to go through the process of elimination.
As I suggested unplug the connector and wire up switches to the connector. As I said you can use any sw for test purpose. House light sw. It could be the connector or connectors is not making a good connection all the time.
The coil is a brand new accel super stock coil that bench tested perfectly, the distributor is one of those mopar beige top magnetic distributors internals look good but doesnt mean magnet isnt worn.
 

flamesoldier

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That looks like it is wired as it should be. Bulkhead wires connected together when starting and running. Stock coil and distributor? It' seem like it is a bad connection somewhere.
Your are going to have to go through the process of elimination.
As I suggested unplug the connector and wire up switches to the connector. As I said you can use any sw for test purpose. House light sw. It could be the connector or connectors is not making a good connection all the time.
Unplug what connector
 

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Unplug what connector
Under the steering column. dark blue ing 1 start, Brown ing 2 run. As I said unplug under the column use a jumper from battery red wire in the plug and feed run. Also from red touch to the start. that will by pass the ing sw. The yellow is the starter relay. that can be hooked to the dark blue or jumped the relay.Try it a number of time and see if it works. You can use a house light sw if you want feed each one from the red. Leave it wired in and try the next day. Then you will know if it keeps working it's a bad ing sw. If not then it could be the connector or bulkhead connector. Providing all MSD wiring connections are good.
1716045098325.jpeg
 
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flamesoldier

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Under the steering column. dark blue ing 1 start, Brown ing 2 run. As I said unplug under the column use a jumper from battery red wire in the plug and feed run. Also from red touch to the start. that will by pass the ing sw. Try it a number of time and see if it works. You can use a house light sw if you want feed each one from the red. Leave it wired in and try the next day. Then you will know if it keeps working it's a bad ing sw. If not then it could be the connector or bulkhead connector. Providing all MSD wiring connections are good.View attachment 124127
Ok sounds good
 

flamesoldier

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Under the steering column. dark blue ing 1 start, Brown ing 2 run. As I said unplug under the column use a jumper from battery red wire in the plug and feed run. Also from red touch to the start. that will by pass the ing sw. The yellow is the starter relay. that cna be hooked to the dark blue or jumped the relay.Try it a number of time and see if it works. You can use a house light sw if you want feed each one from the red. Leave it wired in and try the next day. Then you will know if it keeps working it's a bad ing sw. If not then it could be the connector or bulkhead connector. Providing all MSD wiring connections are good.View attachment 124127
What gauge wires you think i need for jumper 10-12g?
 

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You have the brown and dark blue tied together as MSD instructions. You need 2 sws 1 for ign and a second 1 for the starer relay or jump the relay. Factory wiring Brown and D blue are separate.
 

Adam

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I am currently having this problem. I believe it is faulty connections in the column harness connector. Because when everything is dead if I even just touch the connector everything works. I tried to wiggle the wires individually but have been unable to determine the specific problem wire. The column connector male/female pins do not fit tightly together, this is a likely source of bad connections. I have tried dielectric grease, with no improvement.

However today I had an interesting development, my car started and was running but the gauges were not working at all. Looking at the diagram I think it’s the large black (accessory) wire. I will update if I solve this…
 
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flamesoldier

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I am currently having this problem. I believe it is faulty connections in the column harness connector. Because when everything is dead if I even just touch the connector everything works. I tried to wiggle the wires individually but have been unable to determine the specific problem wire. The column connector btw does not have male/female plugs. They are just connectors that touch each other… this is a likely source of bad connections. I have tried dielectric grease, with no improvement.

However today I had an interesting development, my car started and was running but the gauges were not working at all. Looking at the diagram I think it’s the large black (accessory) wire. I will update if I solve this…
I dont have same problem as you i have never had dead no start i have crank no start but could be from the ignition switch
 

Adam

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I dont have same problem as you i have never had dead no start i have crank no start but could be from the ignition switch
Sorry, just trying to help. I must of misunderstood your first post:
" You put the key in ignition and turn to go start and it sometime is dead as a door nail. Not even ability to turn over. No accessory of any kind and cabin light wont turn on when door open.".
 

Adam

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Sorry, just trying to help. I must of misunderstood your first post:
" You put the key in ignition and turn to go start and it sometime is dead as a door nail. Not even ability to turn over. No accessory of any kind and cabin light wont turn on when door open.".
Anyway, the column connector is another place to check. Bad connections here will mimic a faulty ignition switch.
 

flamesoldier

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Anyway, the column connector is another place to check. Bad connections here will mimic a faulty ignition switch.
Yea I believe thats was neutral safety switch i changed out i have had some concerns but the dome flickering etc was from a shorting out wiper motor
 

Challenger RTA

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Anyway, the column connector is another place to check. Bad connections here will mimic a faulty ignition switch.
That's the point and telling to jump at the connector. It helps narrow it down where the problem might be. if good there time to move forward or more so back to the ignition sw.
 

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Anyway, the column connector is another place to check. Bad connections here will mimic a faulty ignition switch.
The way I resoled that problem was to use a pointed object. like to point of a test probe and expand the male connector. Then if need be use a small needle nose plyers or screw driver the close up the female connector. Dielectric grease will help reduce corrosion and aid in connecting and disconnecting. The picture that I posted, that's what I did.
 
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Challenger RTA

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Time to get after it and finish my check off list

View attachment 124184
That is a good tool to confirm what you already know. I think it is faulty connections (plural) as Adam has a mentioned.
That why we were both suggesting to start at the connector.

At the beginning it seem to read no power at all or sometimes. More than one bad connection and it could be.
 

flamesoldier

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That is a good tool to confirm what you already know. I think it is faulty connections (plural) as Adam has a mentioned.
That why we were both suggesting to start at the connector.
Ok so checked red brown and blue from under column and at bulk head all light up with test light
 

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Quick recent story. On Adam's problem too. Help someone yank a motor. Changed head gasket and help but back in. Left them to hook everything back up. Called me and said it wound start. No spark. The engine light was on. I said that's normal any more.;) He said NOOO! It's on allll the time with the key off. I said OK I'll look at it. 1 the coil plug was not making good contact.tweeted the pins in the plug. BENT. Had spark. As soon as it started and ran I seen sparks. Alternator mounting bolt loose. Tighten and fix mil light. That being said Still think multiple bad connections.
 

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Ok so checked red brown and blue from under column and at bulk head all light up with test light
With the it plugged together that's how it should work turning the key. There could be a bad connection and act erratic. Unplug and work connection to make sure they are good same as the bulkhead connector. That you might have already done.
The other thing to do is hot wire it completely void of wiring harness then drive it like you stole it!
 
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