Dash flickering intermittent starting

[flamesoldier]

No blue wire anywhere there is a 2 wire magnetic pickup distributor that plugs directly into msd 2 wire output

 

[flamesoldier]

That's what I was wondering. All I can do is keep shotguning you answers if I don't have the diagram. many of parts have gone by the way because of bad connection.

Can it just be that msd box is shot? Because everything else is fine up the the box i even did the jumper wite for the green and blue wores from box and it beeps so the troubleshooting on msd site says if that passes the ignition system up to that point is fine

 

[Challenger RTA]

It could be shot. I would still check the simple things like cap and rotor also wire. Might be the circuit is not being completed.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The way a coil works, is it powers up then it is turned off, then you get the spark discharge. The field collapses. I'm not trying to miss led you just help you understand things. You might already.

 

[flamesoldier]

So how i diagnosed the no spark from coil is, i took of the wire from rotor and jumped it will jumping starter relay to see if spark came out of wire and it didnt

 

[Challenger RTA]

You said : "The msd box has 12v but its not sending spark to coil so the box is shot it appears"
The msd box doesn't send spark to the coil. It sends 12v to the coil. Then it turns it off and the field collapses, the voltage goes through the secondary winding, that's where the spark comes from that goes to the rotor. I there is power to the msd and there is power from the msd to coil that part is good .

 

[Challenger RTA]

The coil can be check with a ohm meter.

 

[flamesoldier]

The coil can be check with a ohm meter.

I tested coil and it tested perfect

 

[flamesoldier]

You said : "The msd box has 12v but its not sending spark to coil so the box is shot it appears"
The msd box doesn't send spark to the coil. It sends 12v to the coil. Then it turns it off and the field collapses, the voltage goes through the secondary winding, that's where the spark comes from that goes to the rotor. I there is power to the msd and there is power from the msd to coil that part is good .

That what it appears i dont have power to the coil

 

[Challenger RTA]

Then more than likely the MSD is shot. As you already figured.
Multi Spark Discharge.
www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_troubleshoot_an_msd_6a_6al_ignition_control/

 

[flamesoldier]

This is a roller coaster lol ok so i got spark from mad doing the by pass if magnetic pick up to coil wire. So msd box is good. I got it more narrowed down. I dont have 12v to the coil with key turned to on position. So cranking it is dead because i dont have 12 v at coil bad ignition switch maybe to blame

 

[mrmopar340]

Run a jumper from the battery to the plus side of the coil and bridge the relay to see if it will start.

 

[flamesoldier]

Run a jumper from the battery to the plus side of the coil and bridge the relay to see if it will start.

Leave everything connected as it is or take the wire off positive before putting jumper

 

[Challenger RTA]

From what I remember the MSD requires power all the time. During start and run. Look at the instructions to see were it requires a jumper. Watch the video I posted #30.

 

[flamesoldier]

So im not sure if this is correct from previous owner i just bought it. So the dark blue wire is married together with the red wire coming from box those two wires are on one side of a butt connection and on a the side of butt connector is brown and green wire. When you look at msd Chrysler ignition instructions it doesnt show blue but it shows the red connects to brown. Is this wired correctly. It appears the blue is connected to the red giving power and then brown and green are connected to completed the wiring.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The original wiring of the car is. you really have to look at the colors, could be a little discolored. The dark blue ing 1 is for start only. It only has power when in the start position, it puts full voltage to the coil for starting propose. The brown wire is what feeds the coil when running. When in the run position it is reduced through the resistor. I know you said it has no resistor as per msd instructions. I think you need a jumper to tie them together. The run and start Dark blue and Brown. check instructions. not sure of color of wire you are working with.
The brown wire over time will melt the insulation in areas from use or abuse.

 

[flamesoldier]

The original wiring of the car is. you really have to look at the colors, could be a little discolored. The dark blue ing 1 is for start only. It only has power when in the start position, it puts full voltage to the coil for starting propose. The brown wire is what feeds the coil when running. When in the run position it is reduced through the resistor. I know you said it has no resistor as per msd instructions. I think you need a jumper to tie them together. The run and start Dark blue and Brown. check instructions. not sure of color of wire you are working with.
The brown wire over time will melt the insulation in areas from use or abuse.

I will draw a picture to show how its wired.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Is this what you have for instructions?

 

[flamesoldier]

Is this what you have for instructions?
View attachment 124113

Yes that is correct, i have both blue and brown ignition 1 and ign2 inline for red “connects to a switched 12

 

[flamesoldier]

@Challenger RTA we are gonna get this figured out lol. Here is how it is currently wired. I bought the car 3 days ago the owner said it had intermittent starting issues one day fires up and rips like hell no issues the next crank no fires.

So here is what i have done to review.

1. I checked the battery to block ground at
0 ohms.
2. I checked the firewall to block ground at
0 ohms
3. I have 12v of switch power to the MSD 6a
4. I did the jumper test of green and purple distributor connection from the MSD 6a to coil, took coil wire distributor side off and grounded it to block then took screw driver and jumped the starter relay with key in in position with screwdriver and watched excellent spark popping off. So in theory im buy passing the ignition run so if ignition switch was bad shouldn't it fire this way.
5. The flickering lights and voltmeter wiggle all over the place was from wiper motor hot and malfunctioning making funny trickle noise.

Next i have to check the distributor to plugs and see of they receive juice.

So as long as my wiring is correct in the diagram enclosed the only course of action i am to believe at this point is the ignition switch when cranking is going bad and not causing proper volts to achieve bang or distributor or cap/rotor is faulty. What do you think?