AAR resto

[pschlosser]

Hey, cool, open floor panels for the Flintstone™ Braking System

 

[don selleck]

thats what i was thinking,

Hey, cool, open floor panels for the Flintstone™ Braking System

I figured I'd give her ass a break been drilling and pounding on it for weeks.

 

[Xcudame]

Looking good Don. And yes a good butt is better than anything else! Did I just say that? No offense intended for the XX folks here!

 

[don selleck]

in reverse this morning again, removed the splash shield from the rocker to floor pan, ground and sanded the crust back to metal, will treat with afterblast (the acid and nickel phosphate). and wipe it down and wait for the new metal coming friday.

 

[larry4406]

Looks like you have the body on a 4-post lift?

 

[pschlosser]

will treat with afterblast (the acid and nickel phosphate)

Does it really have nickel? That's bad ass.

I used to adore a product called Por-15 Metal Ready. That phosphoric acid rust treatment product would leave behind a whitish zinc phosphate coating which I absolutely love in some applications. But they changed their formula (and solution color) and it doesn't do the zinc phosphate stuff anymore. I should confirm the formula changed, but the last two gallons I've used, don't do the job the prior gallons (10+ years old) would do. I suspect the phosphate had an environmental issue.

There are several applications where rusty metal is unsightly, and repainting is not an option. Products that dissolve the rust AND leave behind some zinc on the surface, slow down the return of rust for what seems like years.

Anyway, I gotta go google this Eastwood? After Blast product, and test it out to see if it leaves that coating.

edit: I checked, the POR-15 product still contains zinc phosphate, so I'm not sure why I think it changed. The MSDS on the eastwood product cites just the acid.

 

[don selleck]

Looks like you have the body on a 4-post lift?

yep, and on casters, wanted to preserve the exterior of the car so a rotisserie was not gonna cut it, with the glass it it

 

[don selleck]

Does it really have nickel? That's bad ass.

I used to adore a product called Por-15 Metal Ready. That phosphoric acid rust treatment product would leave behind a whitish zinc phosphate coating which I absolutely love in some applications. But they changed their formula (and solution color) and it doesn't do the zinc phosphate stuff anymore. I should confirm the formula changed, but the last two gallons I've used, don't do the job the prior gallons (10+ years old) would do. I suspect the phosphate had an environmental issue.

There are several applications where rusty metal is unsightly, and repainting is not an option. Products that dissolve the rust AND leave behind some zinc on the surface, slow down the return of rust for what seems like years.

Anyway, I gotta go google this Eastwood? After Blast product, and test it out to see if it leaves that coating.

edit: I checked, the POR-15 product still contains zinc phosphate, so I'm not sure why I think it changed. The MSDS on the eastwood product cites just the acid.

leaves a nickel film and stops flash rust before prime

 

[don selleck]

well up at 5am this morning, got my metal splash shield/ floorboard support yesterday. treated it with afterblast. went out this morning heated up area with heat gun to ensure it dried, turned the heat up in the shop and blasted some etching primer inside the exposed frame rails. only 17 degrees this morning with wind chills around 4 I believe, brr. I usually crack the front overhead door and turn the upper exhaust fan on to vent of the fumes, but too damn cold so evacuated the shop for an hour or so to let the stink settle. Going to prep the supports and floor pan and get ready for install. this is the last major weld left on the car, have a few small crusty spots in the engine compartment, and it should be ready for epoxy metal primer. can't wait!

 

[don selleck]

well started fitting the pan had to slide the back end under the rear pan, then over the trans tunnel and back up to the flange in the engine compartment, will cut the trans tunnel, since it is now overlapped with a 1/32" air cutting wheel after the front, rocker side, and frame rail are secured, as of now it looks like it is about 5/8" too long for it to line up with the ribbing on the other side, the silver dashes are where the panels will overlap, 48" is where it is but front wont clear the firewall flange to 48 5/8" the length of the new pan. as you can see the ribbing lines up now underneath but it is also not sitting flat on the frame rails either , so it needs to go down which will shorten the length. I'm going To cut reliefs in the edges of the pan over the torsion bar crossmember and push it down to see if the extra 5/8" disappears. I will be amazed if this loses all of the 5/8" and the front flange pops in. We will see tomorrrow. I'm done for the day actually about 4 hours ago. wanna go out and look harder at it later tonight to see if I can

see anything different.

 

[don selleck]

more

 

[Old Mopar]

Your workmanship/creativity is top notch, thank you for sharing. Meanwhile since you have the chassis under construction are you interested in some creative seam welding suggestions to improve the rigidity of the unibody?

 

[don selleck]

absolutely, I consider myself a novice welder, any input would be greatly appreciated. I do want to preserve the original look of as if I was never there. but a upgrade to the welds that are there will be happening also

 

[don selleck]

pin pointed out where the floor pan lands on the torsion bar crossmember, ended up cutting 2 relief cuts on the outside edge on each side of the pan letting the panel flex down without wrinkling the edge and

create a flat spot that flushes to the crossmember, the extra 5/8" length was completely swallowed up and the pan line up is nearly perfect. Hats off to AMD again. mapped out where the fastening point are with a white marker and proceeded to predrill the pan, screwed and clamped it down ready to weld the three sides. then will proceed to lap cut the tunnel with a 1/32" cutting wheel, and butt weld.

 

[moparlee]

Thanks for posting your progress and showing us the "ins and outs" for working with the sheet metal. Good learning points for everyone.

 

[don selleck]

I'm learning too, I guess I just have good vision and enough experience to be able to see how the metal will lay down. the screwing and fastening order is very important to, I screwed the front flange together first the proceeded to the lowest part of the floor pan then worked my way out. I like to work on something like that then walk away from it for a bit, and come back and look at it close before I do anything permanent

 

[moparlee]

I'm learning too, I guess I just have good vision and enough experience to be able to see how the metal will lay down. the screwing and fastening order is very important to, I screwed the front flange together first the proceeded to the lowest part of the floor pan then worked my way out. I like to work on something like that then walk away from it for a bit, and come back and look at it close before I do anything permanent

And that's exactly what it is all about!