Non starting issue

[JohnK]

My 71 Cuda has decided to not start. It has started and ran fine up until a week ago. When I turn the key, the seat belt buzzer and dome light come on like always, the engine attempts to briefly turn over and then I lose all power to the car (seat belt buzzer doesn't work and dome light isn't on). I checked the battery and it is holding 11 volts. I removed the negative battery cable (it grounds to the body and to the engine), made sure the terminal was tight and re-attached. Power to the car returned but when I tried to start it, it did the same thing and power to the car disappeared. At one time I thought it may have been the starter relay, so I replaced it, with no change. The last time when I tried to start it, I noticed a small puff of smoke appear near the negative battery terminal. I also tried to attach a jumper cable to a ground on the engine and to the negative cable to see if maybe the cable was bad, no change. Any ideas what could be causing this?

 

[cudajoe13]

K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stu.....

It's the battery or connections.
The lights & buzzer stopping means not enough juice.
The Battery should be 12 volts or better.
Will it start when you jump it?

AACARS.com has a " no start diagnostic guide" under ignition problems tab.

Good luck. Get it rolling.

Cudajoe

 

[JohnK]

Battery had about 10 1/2 volts with my multi meter. When jumped, does start to turn over slowly. Battery died?

 

[moparleo]

Slow charge battery to 12.6 volts for full charge. Then perform your tests. Check your cranking voltage or if you have the tool check amperage draw.

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Load test the battery.....

 

[cudajoe13]

Not all jumper cables carry enough amperage to jump all cars.
I have had one set slow turn the jumped motor & another start it right up.
IT WAS THE HOMEMADE ONE THAT WORKED FINE. Had bigger wires.
Here is a site with a non start trouble shooting flow chart. It looks good to me.
http://www.ifitjams.com/starting.htm

I would clean the connections first & try jumping with a good set of cables or try 2 sets at the same time. There is a cheap & easy cleaning brush for battery terminals & cables at most part shops. You'll need it sooner or later anyway.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

battery voltage should be 13.2 , maybe dropping to mid 12v with the key on & should be 14.2 or better when running definatly a problem with the battery & connections as other said

 

[JohnK]

Thank you all so much. I'll keep you posted on the results.

 

[moparleo]

Cudajoe13 found out about how important the gauge of the wire is when carrying current and what happens when there is too much resistance for the current to flow properly. Most home battery chargers will not charge a battery up to 13 volts. Do your own research regarding the specifics of your vehicles automotive starting and charging system.
As a rule 12.6 volts is considered to be fully charged when not in use. A battery must hold above 9.5 volts to pass a load test with a fully charged battery. This test is after removing the surface charge of the battery. The charging system will generate 13 to 14 volts when there is a standard load on the functioning system. Alternators DO NOT I repeat DO NOT charge a discharged battery. The alternators primary job is to supply the electrical system with the current required to operate properly. The alternators other job is to only maintain the level of charge in the battery. That is why any diagnostics done when the battery is not fully charged before testing will give you a false result.

 

[7071 challenger]

I agree with Leo. Always make sure your battery is fully charge when you perform electrical tests. It may be hard to believe, but at 11 volts, your battery has about 25% of its capacity... If it has a couple of years, replace it. Then, check your charging system. Good luck

Robert

 

[1970Fm317]

I am having the same problem with my 1970 challenger... it will start every now and then but after a couple minutes of just idling it will stall out. me and my brother replaced the coil tried a different distributor and replaced the balance resistor. still it wants to stall out.

 

[burdar]

I am having the same problem with my 1970 challenger... it will start every now and then but after a couple minutes of just idling it will stall out. me and my brother replaced the coil tried a different distributor and replaced the balance resistor. still it wants to stall out.

I would suggest starting your own post about your issue. It's different then the original post. IF you are running a MP orange ECU, switch it out for a known good unit.